Men's Fitted Princess Seam Shirt
Introducing a sophisticated men's sewing pattern for a fitted shirt, expertly shaped with princess seams on both the front & back panels, and finished with a classic collar and cuffs.
When To Wear
This versatile fitted shirt is perfect for a range of occasions, offering both polished professionalism and sleek style:
- Professional & Business Settings: Its tailored fit and classic design make it ideal for the office or formal meetings.
- Smart Casual Events: Dress it up with tailored trousers or down with chinos for a refined, modern look.
- Layering or Standalone Style: Wear it under a blazer for a sharp ensemble, or as a sophisticated standalone piece.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a sleek and fitted silhouette, expertly shaped by vertical princess seams on both the front and back panels for a tailored contour.
Neckline & Collar: Features a classic shirt collar with a separate collar stand, providing a crisp and structured neckline.
Closure: a full-length front button placket with a clean finish, secured by multiple buttons.
Sleeves: Long, set-in sleeves ending in structured, buttoned cuffs.
Back: Designed with princess seams extending from the armhole to the hem, complemented by a center back seam, all contributing to the shirt's fitted shape.
Hem: a gently curved shirt-tail hem, designed to be worn tucked in or out.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. This pattern requires careful attention to detail for shaping princess seams, constructing a neat collar with a stand, and attaching precise cuffs and a button placket.
Fabric Recommendations
For optimal fit and drape, select fabrics with some body and flexibility:
- Shirting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers with added elastane
- Satin, charmeuse, or other smooth fabrics with a slight stretch for a luxurious finish
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing for collar, stand, cuffs, & placket
- 10 buttons
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- 1. Center back with placket - 2 qty
- 2. Side back - 2 qty
- 3. Center front - 2 qty
- 4. Side front — 2 qty
- 5. Placket — 2 qty
- 6. Sleeve placket – 2 qty
- 7. Sleeve – 2 qty
- 8. Collar – 2 qty
- 9. Stand – 2 qty
- 10. Cuff — 4 qty
- From fusible interfacing:
- 1. Collar – 1 qty
- 2. Stand – 1 qty
- 3. Cuff – 2 qty
- 4. Placket – 2 qty
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the cuffs, upper collar, inner stand, and placket.
- Stitch the princess seams of the front and back. Finish seam allowances and press towards the center. Topstitch along the princess seams 0.5 cm from the seams. Stitch the center back seam. Finish seam allowances and press to the left side. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Place the upper collar and lower collar right sides together. Stitch the ends and outer edge of the collar. Trim seams. Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press. Topstitch along the outer edge and ends of the collar. Press the lower edge of the inner stand inwards by 1 cm and topstitch 0.7 cm. Place the stand pieces right sides together, aligning the upper edge, insert the finished collar between them, align the notches, and stitch, simultaneously stitching the ends of the stand. Turn the finished collar right side out and press.
- Place the placket right side onto the wrong side of the front and stitch the edge of the opening. Fold the placket to the right side, turn under the raw edge, and topstitch onto the front 0.5 cm from the fold. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge of the opening.
- Stitch and finish the shoulder seams. Press seam allowances towards the back. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Attach the upper stand with the collar to the neckline, pressing the seam towards the stand. Topstitch the lower stand into the seam of the upper stand attachment.
- Vent processing: Cut the sleeve along the marked line, clipping the corner at the top of the cut. Turn the section from the cut to the marked line, equal to 1.5 cm, inwards twice by 0.5 cm and topstitch. Fold the placket in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch the corner up to the transverse mark. Trim seam allowances close to the stitching, clip the allowance at the end of the stitching. Turn the placket right side out, press, and topstitch along the fold line from the bottom to the transverse mark 0.1 cm. Place the placket with the sleeve right sides together and attach the inner side along the marked line. Clip the sleeve at the end of the stitching across from the cut to the attachment line. Fold the placket to the right side, turn under the open edge, and attach. Align the placket with the marked line on the sleeve and topstitch the upper corner along the contour and along the transverse mark.
- Set the sleeves into the open armhole. Finish the seam and press towards the front.
- Stitch the sleeve seams, simultaneously stitching the side seam. Finish the seams and press towards the back. Form and secure the pleats according to the markings.
- On the outer cuff piece, fold the lower edge by 1 cm and topstitch 0.7 cm. Fold the cuff lengthwise right sides together and stitch, aligning the upper edge. Turn the cuffs right side out and press. Attach the inner side of the cuff to the sleeve. Topstitch the outer side of the cuff into the attachment seam.
- Finish the hem of the garment, press to the wrong side, and topstitch.
- On the cuffs and stand, make buttonholes and sew on buttons. On the right front, make buttonholes, on the left front - sew on buttons.
