Classic Single-Breasted Jacket with Chest Welt Pocket, Hip Double-Welt Pockets with Flaps & Double Back Vents
Introducing a digital pattern for the single-breasted tailored jacket with three-button closure – Timeless Menswear with Modern Precision.
When To Wear
This structured blazer offers versatile elegance, making it ideal for:
- Business & Formal Events: a polished essential for office meetings, presentations, and professional gatherings.
- Smart Casual Outings: Pair with jeans or chinos for a refined weekend look.
- Special Occasions: a classic jacket that completes both day and evening ensembles.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Tailored single-breasted blazer with three-button front closure.
Collar & Lapel: Notched lapel with structured collar for a sharp, modern profile.
Pockets: Two hip double-welt pockets with flaps, one welt chest pocket.
Sleeves: Long two-piece sleeves with vents and four decorative buttons.
Back: Center-back seam and double side vents for ease of movement.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Advanced. Precision is required for constructing the lapel, setting tailored sleeves, and achieving a professional finish with canvas stitching and interfacing.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose high-quality suiting fabrics in natural or blended fibers for crisp tailoring:
- Pure wool or wool blends
- Worsted suiting or lightweight tweed
- Fine gabardine or structured cotton blends
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- Shoulder pads
- Three front buttons (20 mm)
- Eight small sleeve buttons (14 mm)
- Lining fabric
- Optional sleeve head wadding
Cutter’s Must
From Main Fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Side – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Upper Collar – 1 piece
- Stand Collar (for Upper Collar only) – 1 piece
- Lower Collar (with integrated stand) – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Pocket Flap – 2 pieces
- Pocket Welt (marked on pattern as “Pocket Off-Set Welt”) – 1 piece
- Pocket Bag (for Chest Pocket) - 1 piece
- Pocket Welt Facing – cut 4 rectangles (18.5 x 4 cm)
- Pocket Bag – cut 2 rectangles (18.5 x 20 cm)
From Lining Fabric:
Use main pattern pieces with the following modifications:
- Back Lining – use Back pattern, add 2 cm pleat at center back, exclude vent extensions; cut 2.
- Front Lining – use Front pattern excluding center front facing area; cut 2.
- Upper Sleeve – use pattern excluding vent extension; cut 2.
- Lower Sleeve – use pattern excluding vent extension; cut 2.
- Pocket Flap – cut 2.
- Pocket Bag (for Chest Pocket) – cut 1.
- Pocket Bag – 2 rectangles (18.5 × 20 cm).
- Shorten both jacket and sleeve linings by 2 cm at hem.
From Fusible Interfacing:
- Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Upper Collar - 1 piece
- Stand Collar - 1 piece
- Lower Collar (with integrated stand) – 1 piece
- Pocket Flap – 2 pieces
- Chest Pocket Welt - 1 piece
- Hem allowances of Fronts, Back, Sleeves and Vents.
Important Information
Before cutting your fabric:
- Print and lay out pattern pieces to determine yardage.
- Check mirrored pieces, notches, and grainlines.
- For patterned fabrics, align carefully for symmetry.
Assembly Instructions
Preparation – Fuse Interfacing
From the wrong side, apply fusible interfacing to Fronts, Center Front Facings, Upper Collar, Stand Collar, Pocket Flaps, Chest Pocket Welt, hem allowances of body and sleeves, and vent extensions.
Body Shaping
- Slash pocket opening on the front, stitch dart, cut along fold, and press open.
- Baste along pocket opening edges.
Pocket Flaps
- With right sides together, stitch each Pocket Flap to its lining.
- Turn right side out and press.
Chest Welt Pocket
On the Left Front, construct a single-welt chest pocket:
- Fold welt lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch short ends, trim corners, turn, and press.
- Place welt face down along pocket marking.
- Layer pocket lining (lining fabric) over welt, and main fabric pocket lining above, facing upward.
- Stitch 5 mm on each side of marking.
- Slash between stitching, clip diagonally to corners, turn to inside.
- Zigzag or hand-stitch welt’s free edge to lining pocket bag.
- Align pocket bags, stitch around contour.
- From right side, secure welt ends to garment.
Front Panel Seams
Stitch front panel seam; press allowances open.
Hip Pockets
Construct double-welt pockets with flaps:
- Press welts lengthwise, wrong sides together.
- Pin upper and lower welts to Front along markings.
- Place lining pocket bag on lower welt; place main pocket bag on upper welt with flap inserted between upper welt and bag (flap turned upward).
- Stitch 5 mm from each side of marking.
- Cut opening through center, clip to corners.
- Turn pocket bags inside, roll welts to form 1 cm lips, press.
- Press flap down over opening.
- Zigzag welt edges to pocket bags.
- Align and stitch pocket bags together.
- From wrong side, secure welt ends to small fabric triangles.
Body Assembly
- Stitch Backs together at center seam.
- Join Shoulder Seams.
- Attach Sides to Backs up to vents; press allowances open.
Collar & Facings
- Stitch Stand Collar to Upper Collar; press open.
- Stitch Lower Collar (with integrated stand) to neckline, right sides together; clip curves, press allowances down.
- Stitch Upper Collar + Stand Collar to Center Front Facings; press seams open.
- Place Center Front Facing + Collar unit right sides together with garment; align edges and stitch around lapels and collar.
- Trim corners, turn right side out, press.
- Slipstitch inner neckline edge of Stand Collar to cover neckline seam if needed.
Sleeves – Two-Piece with Vent
- Stitch Upper and Lower Sleeve together to vent notch, easing as necessary; press open.
- Turn sleeve right side out.
- Fold vent and hem allowances to right side, stitch diagonal across vent corner for clean miter, trim to 1 cm, press open.
- Turn allowances inside, secure with cross-stitch, form vent overlap.
Sleeve Cap
- Ease-stitch between notches, pull threads to fit armhole.
- Steam-shrink fullness.
- Stitch sleeve seam, press open.
- Set sleeves into armholes, sewing from sleeve side.
- Fold padding (if used) and hand-stitch to sleeve caps.
Vents & Hems
- Fold back vent facing to right side; stitch along hem foldline.
- Turn right side out, slipstitch invisibly along edge.
- Fold hem allowance of side panel to right side; stitch along vent facing edge.
- Turn right side out, slipstitch invisibly.
- Lay vents toward back; secure at top with a short diagonal tack.
Shoulder Pads
Sew in shoulder pads.
Lining
- Form movement pleat at center back; secure below neckline and a few centimeters above hem.
- Assemble lining same as main garment, leaving 20 cm opening in one sleeve seam.
- Insert lining into garment, right sides together, aligning center back and shoulders.
- Stitch lining to facings and neckline edges.
- Turn upper collar edge under; press.
- Place upper and lower collars wrong sides together; hand-stitch lower collar to upper collar and back neckline with loose zigzag.
- Form jump pleat along hem; attach lining to hem allowance, stitching to right vent fold and left vent facing edge (make a small horizontal snip at base of left back vent in lining before attaching).
- Turn right side out through sleeve opening; close opening neatly.
Finishing
- Work buttonholes on left front and lapel as marked; attach buttons.
- Work non-cut decorative buttonholes on sleeves; secure vents with buttons.
