Men's Double Breasted Coat

Double-Breasted Coat with Generous Lapels, Flap Welt Pockets, Back Belt & Center Back Vent

Introducing a men's sewing pattern for a tailored double-breasted coat with flap pockets and back belt tab – Structured Warmth with Timeless Appeal.

When To Wear

This coat is ideal for settings where sophistication, structure, and warmth are essential:

• City & Everyday Wear: Perfect over business suits, casual knits, or layered winter outfits.
• Ceremonial & Formal Events: Its tailored shape and classic lapels make it suitable for weddings, uniforms, and formal attire.
• Historical & Costume Use: a strong base for period costumes, theatrical wardrobes, or vintage-inspired styling.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Long, straight coat with a structured shoulder and lightly shaped waistline.

Front: Double-breasted closure with two rows of buttons.

Lapels & Collar: Classic notched lapel with tailored collar stand.

Chest Pocket: Welt breast pocket on left side.

Waist Pockets: Flap welt pockets on both fronts.

Back: Vertical seams and a decorative half-belt fastened with buttons. Long back vent for walking ease.

Sleeves: Two-piece tailored sleeves with buttoned vent at the cuff (three decorative buttons).

Level Of Difficulty

Advanced. Requires confidence in structured tailoring and pressing, constructing welt pockets and lapels, assembling two-piece sleeves with vent and buttons, attaching lining and optional shoulder pads.

Fabric Recommendations

Choose medium to heavy coat fabrics with structure and drape:

• Wool or wool-blend coating
• Cashmere wool, velour, melton, drap
• Heavy suiting fabrics for lighter versions

Lining: viscose, satin, or polyester lining fabric

Additional Supplies

• Fusible interfacing – for lapels, collar, collar stand, facings, pocket flaps, hem and sleeve hem allowances
• Lining fabric
• Optional thin shoulder pads
• Buttons: 7 large coat buttons (approx. 27 mm), 6 medium buttons (approx. 22 mm)

Cutter’s Must

From Main Fabric:

1. Back – 2 pieces
2. Front – 2 pieces
3. Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
4. Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
5. Upper Collar – 1 piece
6. Stand Collar for Upper Collar – 1 piece
7. Lower Collar – 1 piece
8. Chest Welt (marked on pattern as “Off-set Welt”) - 1 piece
9. Pocket Flap – 2 pieces
10. Back Belt (marked on pattern as “Strap”) – 4 pieces
11. Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
12. Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
13. Pocket Welt Facing - rectangle 17.5 х 2 см - 4 pieces
14. Chest Welt Pocket Bag - rectangle 19.5 х 23 см - 1 piece

From Lining:

For drafting the lining pattern pieces, use the following modifications:

1. Back – use Back pattern piece, add 2 cm center ease pleat, exclude vent extension, cut 2.
2. Front – use Front pattern piece excluding center front facing area, cut 2.
3. Upper and Lower Sleeve – use Upper and Lower Sleeve patterns excluding sleeve vent extensions, cut 2 each.
4. Pocket Bag – use Pocket Bag pattern without any changes, cut 2.

From Fusible Interfacing:

Cut fusible interfacing pieces using main patterns for Fronts, Center Front Facings, Upper and Lower Collars, Stand Collar, Pocket Flaps, Back Belt, coat hem allowance.

Important Information

Before cutting your fabric:

• Print and lay out pattern pieces to determine yardage.
• Check mirrored pieces, notches, and grainlines.
• For patterned fabrics, align carefully for symmetry.

Assembly Instructions

1. Preparation – Fuse Interfacing

From the wrong side, apply fusible interfacing to:

• Front Parts (lapel and hem area)
• Center Front Facings
• Upper Collar
• Stand Collar
• Lower Collar
• Chest Welt
• Pocket Flaps
• Pocket Welt Facing rectangles
• Back Belt
• Hem allowances of Fronts, Back, and Sleeves

Press with a hot iron and press cloth until fully bonded.

2. Chest Welt Pocket (Left Front)

Stitch the Front dart and press toward center front.

Staystitch or baste along the pocket opening marking.

Construct Welt:

• Fold the welt piece right sides together lengthwise. Stitch short edges, trim corners, turn, and press.
• Place welt face down on left front along pocket marking.

Assemble Pocket:

• Place the pocket bag (lining fabric) over welt.
• Place second pocket bag (main fabric) above the pocket line facing upward.
• Stitch 5 mm from each side of the marked line through all layers.
• Cut between stitching lines, clipping diagonally into corners.
• Turn pocket bags to inside.
• Zigzag or understitch welt’s free edge to lining pocket bag.
• Align pocket bags, stitch around to close.
• From right side, secure welt ends with small diagonal stitches.

3. Pocket Flaps

• Place flap and flap lining right sides together.
• Stitch around all sides except top edge.
• Trim, turn right side out, press.
• Topstitch 1 cm from edges (omit top edge).

4. Double-Welt Pockets with Flaps (Both Fronts)

Fold pocket welt facings (rectangles) in half lengthwise, right sides together, press.

Attach Welts & Flap:

• Position upper and lower welts along pocket marking (raw edges to opening).
• Insert flap between upper welt and main pocket bag, flap pointing upward.
• Place lining pocket bag on lower welt.
• Place main pocket bag on upper welt over flap.
• Stitch 5 mm from each side of pocket marking through all layers.

Finish Opening:

• Cut between rows of stitching, clip corners.
• Turn pocket bags inside, roll welts 1 cm to form lips.
• Press flap downward.
• Zigzag welt allowances to pocket bags.
• Align pocket bags and stitch around contour.
• Secure corners from wrong side (bar-tacks to fabric triangles).

5. Back Assembly & Center Vent

Stitch center-back seam from neckline to vent marking; press open.

Vent Construction (Center Back):

• Fold left vent allowance to right side along hem fold; stitch along hem foldline.
• Clip corners, turn right side out, press.
• Fold right vent hem allowance to right side, stitch along vent edge, turn, and press.
• Overlap right vent under left; secure top with diagonal reinforcement stitch.

6. Back Belt

• Place belt pieces right sides together.
• Stitch along long edges and curved ends; leave top short edge open.
• Turn right side out and press.
• Work decorative topstitching if desired.
• Pin belt to back along markings, pointing toward side seams.
• Baste in place — belt will be permanently stitched into side seams.

7. Main Body Assembly

Join Fronts to Backs; press seam allowances open.

Stitch shoulder seams; press open.

Anchor belt ends permanently into side seam stitching.

8. Collar & Facings

(Upper collar has a separate stand; Lower collar includes integrated stand)

Prepare Collars:

• Lower Collar: No separate stand.
• Upper Collar: Stitch stand collar to upper collar, right sides together; press seam open.

Attach Collars:

• Sew Lower Collar to jacket neckline, right sides together.
• Clip curves and press seam allowances downward.
• Sew Upper Collar + Stand to Center Front Facings at neckline; press seams open.

Join Jacket & Facings:

• Place Center Front Facing + Upper Collar unit right sides together onto jacket body (Lower Collar already attached).
• Stitch in one continuous line: hem → front edge → lapel → collar → opposite side.
• Trim bulk, notch curves, turn right side out, press flat.
• Turn inner edge of collar stand under and hand-slipstitch to cover neckline seam if needed.

9. Sleeves — Two-Piece with Vents

Assemble Sleeve:

• Stitch upper and lower sleeve together along front seam; press open.
• Stitch elbow seam up to vent notch; press open.

Construct Sleeve Vent:

• Fold vent and hem allowances to right side at marked fold.
• Stitch diagonal line across vent corner to form a clean mitre.
• Trim to 1 cm, turn allowances to inside, press folded vent edge.
• Secure vent seam allowance by hand (vent must remain functional).

Set Sleeves:

• Ease sleeve cap with two rows of gathering stitches between notches.
• Steam-shrink fullness.
• Pin sleeve into armhole, matching notches; stitch from sleeve side.
• Add sleeve head wadding and shoulder pads.

10. Lining Assembly

Construct lining identical to outer coat except:

• Add 2 cm center-back pleat for movement.
• Exclude sleeve vent (lining sleeves have straight hems).
• Leave 20 cm opening in one sleeve for turning.

Attach Lining to Jacket:

Insert lining into jacket, right sides together.

Stitch lining to:

• Center Front facings
• Back neckline

Do not stitch lining to hem or sleeves yet.

11. Hem & Sleeve Lining Finish

Hem:

• Turn hem allowance to inside; press.
• Fold lining hem up 2–3 cm shorter; form jump pleat.
• Stitch lining to hem allowance.

Sleeve Lining (Functional Vent):

• Turn up shell sleeve hem allowance; secure by hand. Leave vent open.
• Insert lining sleeve into shell sleeve.
• Fold lining edge under 1–1.5 cm and slipstitch to sleeve hem allowance — only across closed sleeve section.
• Stop stitching before vent opening; lining must hang free at vent.
• If tight, make a small diagonal snip at vent top.

12. Finishing

• Turn garment right side out through sleeve opening. Close opening.
• Work buttonholes on lapels, fronts, belt (if functional), and sleeves.
• Attach buttons.
• Remove basting, give final press, shape collar and lapel roll on tailor’s ham.