Collared Shirt Dress with Roll-Up Sleeves
Elegant and practical, this made-to-measure shirt dress pattern features a classic collar, convertible roll-up sleeves, and versatile pocket details.
When To Wear
This versatile shirt dress is suitable for a variety of settings, offering comfort and polished style for:
- Everyday Chic: Perfect for a stylish and comfortable daily look, whether running errands or meeting friends.
- Casual Office Attire: a smart choice for a relaxed yet professional office environment.
- Weekend Getaways: Its easy-wearing design makes it ideal for travel and leisure activities.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a comfortable, straight silhouette with a relaxed fit through the body, falling to the knee.
Neckline & Collar: Features a classic pointed shirt collar set on a stand, providing a smart and structured neckline.
Closure: a full-length front placket with button closure from collar to hem ensures easy wear and a polished look.
Sleeves: Three-quarter length sleeves are designed with button tabs to allow for stylish rolling up and securing.
Pockets: Functional detailing includes two button-flap patch pockets on the chest and two slanted welt pockets at the hip.
Back: a clean back design is structured with a back yoke for a tailored finish.
Length: The hem finishes gracefully at or just above the knee, offering a modern and wearable length.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires skills in constructing shirt collars with stands, full button plackets, buttonholes, patch pockets with flaps, and welt pockets.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose dressmaking fabrics with some body and drape, suitable for shirt dresses, such as:
- Dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers with added elastane
- Corduroy
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- 12 buttons
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances; if the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 2 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Back - 2 pieces
- Front - 2 pieces
- Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Yoke - 2 pieces
- Right placket - 1 piece
- Left placket - 1 piece
- Collar - 2 pieces
- Collar stand - 2 pieces
- Cuff - 2 pieces
- Tab - 2 pieces
- Pocket - 2 pieces
- Welt - 2 pieces
- Pocket tab - 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Right placket - 1 piece
- Left placket - 1 piece
- Collar - 1 piece
- Collar stand - 1 piece
- Cuff - 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Small pocket bag - 2 pieces
- Large pocket bag - 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch the darts on the back pieces, press the dart depths towards the center. Stitch the center back seam. Overlock the allowances and press to the left side.
- Stitch the darts on the front piece. Press the dart depths upwards.
- Overlock the upper edge of the pocket. Fold the allowance inwards and topstitch. Fold the lower and side allowances of the pocket to the wrong side and press. Place the pocket on the front piece and topstitch according to the marking.
- Fold the pocket tab in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the side and lower edges. Trim the allowances, turn the tab right side out and press. Overlock the buttonhole on the tab. Attach the tab to the upper edge of the front piece according to the marking.
- Attach the front yoke to the front piece. Overlock the allowance. Form a pleat and lay a decorative – securing stitch along the marked line.
- Mark the pocket placement. Press the welt lengthwise in half, wrong side inwards. Topstitch the small pocket bag to the inner side of the welt. Attach the welt to the front piece along the lower pocket marking line. Attach the large pocket bag to the front piece along the upper pocket marking line. The ends of the stitches should finish at the short marking lines. Cut the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the welt and large pocket bag to the wrong side through the opening. Secure the ends of the pocket from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the pocket bag edges.
- On the left front piece, along the vertical edge of the vent, cut off 5 cm. On both front pieces, interface the vent from the wrong side. On the right side, mark the center seam line (vent fold line). Press the left along the vent fold line, on the right, press only the allowance of the right side of the vent (6 cm) to the wrong side. Align the pieces along the center seam and secure at the upper edge of the vent. Overlock the center front of the back separately on each piece. Overlock the vent allowances. Stitch the center front seam up to the vent corner. Slash the corner of the vent seam allowance on the right. Press open the center seam allowances, press the vent allowances and secure them with machine stitching.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams. Press the allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Left placket: Fold the placket piece right side out and press. Overlock the long and lower edges of the placket. Attach the placket to the right side of the front piece, stopping 1 cm from the bottom. Slash the front piece allowance at the corner, stopping 1 mm from the stitch line. Tuck the end of the placket inwards.
- Right placket: Fold the placket in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the lower corner. Slash the placket allowance at the corner. Trim the allowances, turn the placket right side out and press. Overlock the long edge of the placket. Attach the placket to the right side of the front piece, stopping 1 cm from the bottom. Slash the front piece allowance at the corner, stopping 1 mm from the stitch line. Straighten the placket corner on the right side.
- Place the right placket over the left, and topstitch the corner to the front piece, securing the left placket.
- Fold the collar pieces right sides together, stitch the ends and the outer edge. Trim the allowances at the corners. Turn the collar right side out, shape and press. Topstitch 0.1 cm from the edge. Fold the collar stand pieces right sides together, insert the finished collar between them and stitch, simultaneously stitching the ends of the collar stand. Start and finish the stitch strictly at the marked line of the collar stand attachment seam. Turn the finished collar right side out and press. Attach the outer collar stand to the neckline, fold under the open edge of the inner collar stand and topstitch into the attachment seam.
- Fold the tabs lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch along the long and short edges. Turn right side out, trimming allowances at the corners, shape and press. Overlock the open short edge. Topstitch the tabs according to the marking on the wrong side of the sleeves.
- Stitch the sleeve seam. Overlock the allowances and press towards the back. Stitch the cuff into a ring. Press open the allowance. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, fold the allowance of the inner side of the cuff inwards and topstitch into the attachment seam of the outer side.
- Overlock the lower edge of the garment. Fold the allowance to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Overlock the buttonholes and sew on buttons on the placket and collar stand. Sew on buttons on the sleeves and upper pockets.
