Piped Raglan Jacket with Stand Collar
Providing a versatile sewing pattern for a sporty jacket featuring a stand collar, raglan sleeves, and accent piping throughout its panelled construction.
When To Wear
This jacket pattern is designed for comfort and versatility, making it suitable for:
- Everyday Casual: a comfortable and stylish outer layer for daily wear.
- Active & Outdoor Pursuits: Ideal for light sports or activities thanks to its relaxed fit and durable fabric compatibility.
- Transitional Weather: Perfect as a lightweight cover-up or an insulated layer for cooler temperatures.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a comfortable, relaxed-fit jacket with a sporty aesthetic.
Neckline & Collar: Features a structured stand collar for added protection and style.
Closure: Full-length separating zipper at the front provides easy wear and adjustability.
Sleeves: Raglan sleeve construction offers freedom of movement and a distinctive shoulder line, finished with elasticated cuffs.
Pockets: Practical in-seam welt pockets with an applied flap are integrated into the front side panels.
Details: Accent piping details highlight the raglan seams and frame the front zipper. The hem is finished with an adjustable elastic cord.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Involves techniques such as zipper installation, piping application, and constructing in-seam welt pockets.
Fabric Recommendations
Opt for functional fabrics that provide durability and comfort:
- Raincoat fabrics (e.g., polyester blends) for the main garment
- Mesh knit fabric, fleece, or Polartec for lining (depending on desired warmth)
Additional Supplies
- Thin synthetic batting (e.g., Sintepon) for insulation
- Fusible interfacing
- 1 separating zipper (length dependent on garment size)
- Cording for piping
- 3cm wide elastic tape for cuffs
- Elastic cord for jacket hem
- 2 cord stoppers
- 4 metal eyelets
Cutter's Must
- Main fabric:
- Front center - 2 qty
- Back center - 1 qty
- Front side – 2 qty
- Back side – 2 qty
- Sleeve center - 2 qty
- Sleeve side - 4 qty
- Collar - 2 qty
- Front facing - 2 qty
- Welt – 2 qty
- Cut bias strips 3.5cm wide from the main fabric for piping. The length of the strips depends on the length of the piping.
Attention! After making the piping, a 1 cm seam allowance must remain. Otherwise, adjust the width of the cut strips yourself.
- Lining:
- Front - 2 qty
- Back - 1 qty
- Sleeve - 2 qty
- Pocket bag - 4 qty
- Synthetic insulation:
- Duplicate the upper collar piece cut from the main fabric with synthetic insulation, stitching along the contour.
Sewing Instructions
- Making the piping. Stitch the strips together, press the seam allowances open. Fold the resulting strip in half, insert a cord inside, and stitch along the cord's contour.
- Pockets in the seam with a topstitched welt. Duplicate the welt with fusible interfacing, fold in half, and stitch along the side edges. Turn right side out, press, and topstitch. Topstitch the piping onto the center front. Attach the pocket bag to the side front. Place the welt on the center front (right sides together), then place the pocket bag and stitch along the pocket opening with one seam. Turn right side out, press, and topstitch the pocket opening. Stitch the pocket bags together. Attach the side front panels to the center front panels. Topstitch the seam. Make bar tacks at the pocket opening, topstitch the welts to the front side. The edges of the pocket bags should be included in the zipper insertion seam and reach the bottom hemline.
- Assembly of the outer shell. Attach the side panels to the back, inserting the piping. Topstitch the attachment seams. Attach the side sleeve parts to the center sleeve parts, inserting the piping. Attach the sleeves to the front panels and back. Topstitch the sleeve attachment seams along the cap. Stitch the side seams and sleeve seams. Insert the upper collar into the neckline.
- Lining. Topstitch the front facing to the front lining, after pressing the inner edge of the front facing. Stitch the jacket lining. Insert the lower collar into the lining neckline.
- Zipper fastening. Place one half of the zipper with the edge of the garment's front opening right sides together (teeth facing away from the edge). Stitch the edges of the front openings and the collar with the lining, simultaneously inserting the zipper. Turn the garment right side out.
- Install eyelets at the bottom of the jacket. Press the bottom hem and sleeve hems, turning up 1cm first, then 3.5cm. Topstitch the bottom hem of the garment and the sleeve hems, leaving an opening in the sleeve for elastic tape. Insert elastic tape into the bottom of the sleeves.
- Topstitch the front openings and the collar of the jacket.
- Press the finished jacket.
- Insert a cord into the bottom of the jacket.
