Men's Button-Up Shirt
Introducing a men's sewing pattern for a classic button-up shirt, featuring a tailored fit, two chest pockets, and a back yoke with pleats for comfort.
When To Wear
This versatile shirt is suitable for a range of smart-casual to business-casual settings, making it perfect for:
- Everyday Casual: Paired with jeans or chinos for a relaxed yet put-together look.
- Business Casual: Worn untucked or tucked in with trousers for a professional office environment.
- Layering Essential: Excellent as an overshirt or worn under a jacket for added warmth and style.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a comfortable, standard fit that drapes smoothly, offering ease of movement without being overly loose.
Neckline / Collar: a classic point collar with a separate collar stand, designed for a neat and structured finish.
Closure: Full-length front placket with a button closure, providing a traditional and functional opening.
Sleeves: Long sleeves with structured cuffs, each featuring a single button closure and a classic sleeve placket.
Pockets: Two functional patch pockets positioned on the chest, adding utility and a casual aesthetic.
Back: a clean back yoke construction with two subtle pleats beneath, ensuring a comfortable fit across the shoulders and back.
Hem: a gently curved shirttail hem, designed to be worn both tucked in and untucked.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Involves techniques such as collar and stand assembly, precise placket construction, setting in sleeves, and creating cuffs and patch pockets.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose shirting fabrics with a comfortable drape and suitable for structured elements like the collar and cuffs:
- Shirting fabric from natural or blended fibers, optionally with elastane for added comfort and stretch.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- 10 buttons
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: for side and upper edges of sleeve placket — 0.5 cm, for lower edge – 1.5 cm, upper edge of pocket – 3 cm, other seams – 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details).
- From main fabric:
- Back - 1 piece on fold
- Front - 2 pieces
- Placket — 2 pieces
- Sleeve placket – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Cuff — 2 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- Yoke – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar – 1 piece
- Collar stand – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Placket – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interfacing to cuffs, upper collar, inner collar stand, and placket.
- Stitch darts on back pieces. Press dart depths towards the center. Form and secure pleats on the back. Attach yoke to back. Overlock seam allowance and press upwards.
- Place upper collar with lower collar right sides together. Stitch ends and outer edge of collar. Trim seams. Turn collar right side out, shape, and press. Topstitch along outer edge and ends of collar. Press lower edge of inner collar stand inwards by 1 cm and topstitch at 0.7 cm. Place collar stand pieces right sides together, aligning upper edge, insert finished collar between them, align notches, and stitch, simultaneously stitching ends of collar stand. Turn finished collar right side out and press.
- Fold upper edge of pocket inwards by 1 cm, then by 2 cm, and topstitch. Press pocket allowances inwards. Place pocket on right side of front and topstitch according to markings.
- Place placket right side to wrong side of front and stitch edge of front opening. Fold placket to right side, turn under raw edge, and topstitch to front at 0.2 cm from fold. Topstitch at 0.2 cm from edge of front opening.
- Stitch and overlock shoulder seams. Press seam allowance towards the back.
- Attach upper collar stand with collar to neckline, press seam towards collar stand. Topstitch lower collar stand into the seam of the upper collar stand attachment.
- Sleeve placket treatment: Cut sleeve along marked line, clipping corner at upper of cut. Fold section from cut to marked line, equal to 1.5 cm, inwards twice by 0.5 cm and topstitch. Fold placket lengthwise in half right sides together and stitch corner up to cross mark. Trim seam allowances close to stitching, clip allowance at end of stitching. Turn placket right side out, press, and topstitch along fold line from bottom to cross mark at 0.1 cm. Place placket with sleeve right sides together and stitch inner side along marked line. Clip sleeve at end of stitching across from cut to stitching line. Fold placket to right side, turn under raw edge, and stitch. Align placket with marked line on sleeve and topstitch upper corner along contour and along cross mark.
- Set sleeves into open armhole. Overlock seam, press.
- Stitch sleeve seams, simultaneously stitching side seam. Overlock seams and press towards the back. Form and secure pleats at bottom of sleeve according to markings.
- Fold cuff lengthwise in half and stitch short edges. Turn cuffs right side out and press. Attach inner side of cuff to sleeve. Fold lower edge of outer cuff inwards and topstitch into attachment seam.
- Overlock bottom edge of garment, press to wrong side, and topstitch.
- On cuffs and collar stand, overlock buttonholes and sew on buttons. On right front, overlock buttonholes, on left front - sew on buttons.
