Full-Zip Stand Collar Color Block Jacket
Introducing a versatile men's jacket pattern featuring a dynamic color block design, a full-zip front, and comfortable elasticized details at the cuffs and hem.
When To Wear
This jacket is ideal for casual and active wear, making it a perfect choice for:
- Everyday Casual Outings: a stylish and practical layer for daily activities.
- Sport & Leisure Activities: Comfortable outerwear for light athletic pursuits or relaxed weekends.
- Transitional Weather: Offers a protective yet breathable option for changing seasons.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a relaxed fit jacket, designed for comfort and ease of movement with a clean, contemporary line.
Collar: a structured stand collar provides coverage and a modern aesthetic.
Closure: a full-length separable zipper runs down the center front for easy wear and adjustability.
Sleeves: Long, set-in sleeves finished with elasticized cuffs for a snug fit.
Pockets: Functional welt pockets with zippered closures are integrated into the front, offering secure storage.
Color Blocking: Distinctive curved color block panels span the chest, back yoke, and sleeves, creating visual interest.
Hem: An elasticized hem ensures a comfortable fit and helps to retain warmth, with cord stoppers for adjustment.
Length: Sits at the hip, providing practical coverage without restricting movement.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. This pattern requires skills in working with zippers, creating welt pockets, handling elastic, and accurate color block assembly, including piping.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose lightweight to medium-weight woven fabrics with good drape and durability:
- Raincoat fabrics (e.g., polyester blends)
Additional Supplies
- Thin synthetic padding/wadding (e.g., Thinsulate)
- Fusible interfacing
- 1 separable zipper (length depends on garment length including collar stand height)
- Cord for piping
- Elastic tape, 4.5cm wide, for cuffs
- Elastic cord for jacket hem
- 2 cord stoppers
Cutter's Must
- Main fabric:
- Front - 2 qty
- Back - 1 qty
- Back yoke - 1 qty
- Front yoke – 2 qty
- Back insert - 1 qty
- Back insert_2 - 1 qty
- Front insert - 2 qty
- Front insert_2 - 2 qty
- Sleeve - 4 qty
- Sleeve insert - 4 qty
- Collar - 2 qty
- Cuff - 2 qty
- Front facing - 2 qty
- Large pocket bag - 2 qty
- Small pocket bag - 2 qty
- Welt - 2 qty
Cut bias strips 3.5cm wide from the main fabric for making piping. The length of the strips depends on the length of the piping. Attention! After making the piping, a 1 cm seam allowance must remain. Otherwise, adjust the width of the cut strips yourself.
- Lining:
- Front - 2 qty
- Back - 1 qty
- Sleeve - 2 qty
Synthetic insulation: Duplicate the upper collar piece cut from the main fabric with synthetic insulation, stitching along the contour.
Sewing Instructions
- Making piping. Stitch the strips together, press the seams open. Fold the resulting strip in half, insert a cord inside, and stitch along the contour of the cord.
- Welt pockets. Duplicate the welt with fusible interfacing, fold in half lengthwise, and press. Duplicate the pocket placement area with fusible interfacing. Mark a line on the welt that defines the finished welt width. Stitch the piping to the outer side of the welt, and stitch the small pocket bag to the inner side. Place the welt with the pocket bag on the right side of the front, aligning the pocket marking line with the line on the welt. The outer side of the welt should align with the right side of the front. Stitch the welt. Stitch the large pocket bag to the upper pocket marking line. Cut the pocket opening in the middle between the marking lines, making diagonal cuts towards the pocket marking corners. Turn the pocket pieces to the wrong side. Straighten and press the seam allowances. Stitch the pocket bag edges, securing the pocket corners. The edges of the pocket bags should be included in the zipper insertion seam and reach the bottom hemline.
- Assembling the main garment. Stitch the front and back inserts to the front and back yokes, inserting piping. Topstitch. Stitch the yokes to the sleeve pieces. Topstitch the sleeve seam. Stitch inserts_2 to the front panels and back. Topstitch along the back and front panels. Stitch the sleeve inserts to the back and front panels. Topstitch. Stitch the yokes to the back and front panels. Topstitch. Stitch the shoulder seam, transitioning into the central sleeve seam. Topstitch the shoulder seam along the back. Stitch the side seams and sleeve seams. Insert the upper collar into the neckline.
- Lining. Stitch the front facing to the front lining, after pressing the inner edge of the front facing. Stitch the jacket lining. Insert the lower collar into the lining neckline.
- Cuffs. Stitch the cuffs and elastic tape into a loop separately. Insert the elastic tape into the cuff, stretch to the cuff length, and make 2 decorative stitches. For industrial processing, it is recommended to first secure the elastic tape in the cuff, and then stitch into a loop with a 'flat-felled' seam. Stitch the cuffs to the sleeves, catching the edge of the elastic in the seam.
- Zipper fastening. Place one half of the zipper with the garment edge right sides together (teeth pointing away from the edge). Facing the edges of the garment and collar with the lining, simultaneously inserting the zipper. Turn the garment to the right side.
- Stitch the lining to the cuffs.
- Overlock buttonholes for the cord on the bottom hem. Press the bottom hem, turning up 1cm first, then 3.5cm. Topstitch the bottom hem.
- Topstitch the garment edges and collar.
- Press the finished jacket.
- Insert the cord into the bottom of the jacket from the wrong side.
