Collarless 3/4 Sleeve Princess Seam Coat
Introducing a sophisticated women's coat pattern, featuring a sleek collarless neckline and elegant princess seams for a flattering, tailored silhouette.
When To Wear
This coat is a versatile and stylish choice, suitable for:
- Workwear & Professional Settings: Ideal for adding a polished layer over business attire.
- Smart Casual & Daytime Events: a refined option for lunches, exhibitions, or social gatherings.
- Transitional Seasons: Perfect for layering during spring or autumn due to its 3/4 sleeves.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight, subtly shaped by vertical princess seams for a refined fit.
Neckline & Collar: a sleek, collarless round neckline creates a minimalist aesthetic.
Closure: Single-breasted front with five prominent button closures.
Sleeves: Two-piece, 3/4 length sleeves, each finished with two decorative cuff buttons.
Pockets: Discreet in-seam pockets are integrated into the front princess seams.
Back: Features vertical princess seams and a central back vent for comfort and style.
Length: An elegant above-knee length, offering versatility.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires precise seam matching for princess seams, constructing a tailored two-piece sleeve, inserting a back vent, and full lining construction.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose medium-weight fabrics with good body and drape, suitable for outerwear:
- Coat fabrics (e.g., wool, cashmere blends, bouclé, tweed) made from natural or blended fibers.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing
- 2 buttons
- Shoulder pads
- Belt buckle
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back center – 2 qty
- Back side – 2 qty
- Front center – 2 qty
- Front side – 2 qty
- Sleeve upper – 2 qty
- Sleeve lower – 2 qty
- Back neckline facing – 2 qty
- Front facing – 2 qty
- From lining fabric:
- Back center – 2 qty
- Front center – 2 qty
- Back side – 2 qty
- Front side – 2 qty
- Sleeve upper – 2 qty
- Sleeve lower – 2 qty
- Pocket bag — 4 qty
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front center — 2 qty
- Front facing — 2 qty
- Back neckline facing — 2 qty
Also, interface the armhole areas on the back, pocket opening, back and sleeve vents, and the garment hem.
Sewing Instructions
- Interface the pattern pieces with fusible interfacing.
- On the back, stitch the darts, press the fullness towards the center. Stitch the back princess seam allowances, press the seam allowances open. On the wrong side of the back pieces, interface the vent. On the right side, mark the center seam line (vent fold line). Press the left back along the vent fold line. Align the pieces along the center seam. Stitch the center back seam and the vent corner, stopping 1 cm before the vertical vent edge. Clip the vent seam allowance corner on the right. Press the center seam seam allowances open, press the vent seam allowances and secure them on the right side with machine stitching.
- On the front, stitch the darts, press the fullness downwards. Attach the pocket bag to the center front and side front. On the front, stitch the princess seam allowances, simultaneously stitching the pocket bag. Press the seam allowances open, clipping the corner on the side front. Press the pocket towards the center.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seam allowances, press the seam allowances open.
- Stitch and press the elbow seam of the sleeve towards the upper. Finish the sleeve vent. Stitch and press the front sleeve seam open. Along the upper edge of the sleeve cap, stitch with a small stitch length. Gather and ease the sleeve cap. Set the sleeves into the armhole, matching the notches. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve head rolls.
- Stitch the shoulder seam allowances of the front facings and facing, press the seam allowances open.
- Press up the garment hem. Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down. Pin the front facing and the top of the garment and stitch along the front edge and neckline. Attach the lower edge of the front facing to the front strictly along the marked hemline, stopping 1.5 cm before the inner edge of the front facing. Turn the front edges to the right side, straighten the seams.
- On the lining fabric pattern pieces, stitch the seams, leaving an opening in the left side seam for turning. Set in the sleeves. Attach the lining to the front facings and facing. Attach the lining to the hem of the garment. Turn the coat through the opening. Close the opening.
- On the right front, make buttonholes; on the left front, sew on buttons. Sew buttons to the sleeve vent.
