Mid-Length Asymmetric Hooded Belted Coat
This mid-length coat pattern features a uniquely integrated hooded collar, an asymmetric front closure, and a defined waist created by a tie belt.
When To Wear
This stylish mid-length coat is designed for versatile wear, making it an excellent choice for:
- Everyday & Casual Chic: Perfect for adding a touch of sophistication to daily outfits.
- Transitional Seasons: An ideal layering piece for cooler spring or autumn days.
- Statement Outerwear: Its unique asymmetric design and hooded collar make it a stand-out garment.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Mid-length, offering a straight yet adaptable fit, cinched at the waist by a tie belt.
Neckline & Hood: Features a generously sized hood seamlessly integrated into a large, overlapping collar, framing the face and providing warmth.
Closure: An asymmetric front with three visible button closures and a self-fabric tie belt for a customizable waistline.
Sleeves: Long, set-in sleeves designed for comfortable movement and a clean finish.
Pockets: Practical slanted pockets are subtly integrated into the front panel seams.
Back: a clean back silhouette with thoughtful seaming for subtle shaping.
Hem: a straight hemline falling to a stylish mid-length.
Waist: Defined by a detachable self-fabric tie belt, allowing for a cinched or relaxed fit.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires experience with tailored garments, including lining, setting in sleeves, and working with interfacings and structured components like shoulder pads.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose medium-weight coat fabrics that offer both structure and a pleasant drape:
- Wool or wool-blend coating fabrics
- Tweed
- Melton
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing
- 6 buttons
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back center – 2 qty
- Back upper side – 2 qty
- Back lower side – 2 qty
- Front upper side – 2 qty
- Front lower side – 2 qty
- Front center – 2 qty
- Front side – 2 qty
- Placket – 2 qty
- Sleeve upper – 2 qty
- Sleeve lower – 2 qty
- Hood – 4 qty
- Front facing – 2 qty
- Back neckline facing – 1 qty
- Belt – 1 qty
- From lining fabric:
- Back center – 2 qty
- Back upper side – 2 qty
- Back lower side – 2 qty
- Front lining – 2 qty
- Sleeve upper – 2 qty
- Sleeve lower – 2 qty
- Pocket bag – 2 qty
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front center – 2 qty
- Front facing – 2 qty
- Back neckline facing – 1 qty
- Also, seam allowances for the hem of the garment and sleeve hem.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse the fusible interfacing to the pieces.
- Stitch the center back seam, press seam allowances open. Stitch the back lower side and back upper side parts, press seam allowances open. Stitch the back princess seams, press seam allowances towards the center.
- Fuse the fusible interfacing to the upper edge seam allowance of the front side. Place the pocket bag on the right side of the front side and stitch around the pocket opening. Fold the lining to the wrong side and topstitch onto the seam allowances. Place the piece on the front side and secure along the edges. Stitch the pocket bag edges, overlock seam allowances.
- Stitch the front upper side and front lower side parts, press seam allowances upwards. Attach the placket to the front center, press seam allowances towards the placket and topstitch 0.7 cm from the seam. Stitch the front princess seams, press seam allowances towards the center.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the coat, press seam allowances open.
- Attach the back neckline facing to the front facings, press seam allowances open.
- Stitch the hood pieces in pairs, press seam allowances open. Insert the outer hood into the coat neckline, and the inner hood into the neckline of the front facings and facing, clip seam allowances at curves, press open. Fold the front facings with the garment and stitch the edges of the fronts and hood in one seam. Turn the garment to the right side, press. Secure the seam allowances of the hood insertion seams close to the seams.
- Stitch the front sleeve seam, press seam allowances open. Stitch the elbow sleeve seam, press seam allowances open.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch seams and darts, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam. Fold the lining face to face with the coat and attach to the inner edges of the front facings and back neckline facing. Stitch the lower corner of the front, trim the corners. Mark and press the garment hem and sleeve hem to the wrong side. Finish the garment hem and sleeve hem with the lining. Turn the coat through the opening in the sleeve and stitch the technical opening closed.
- On the right placket, overlock buttonholes, and sew on buttons accordingly. On the left placket, overlock the first and third buttonholes, and sew on under-buttons accordingly.
- Fold the belt lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch along the contour, leaving an opening for turning. Trim seam allowances at corners, turn the belt to the right side. Stitch the technical opening closed.
