Tailored Long Sleeve Collared Fly Front Shirt
Introducing a refined sewing pattern for a tailored, long-sleeved garment featuring a classic collared neckline, a clean fly-front closure, and a flattering belted silhouette.
When To Wear
This versatile tailored garment is perfect for a range of occasions, offering both sophistication and comfort:
- Professional & Business Casual: An elegant option for the office or smart business meetings.
- Transitional Weather Styling: Ideal as a light outer layer or a standalone dress during cooler seasons.
- Stylish Everyday Wear: Elevate your daily look with its refined silhouette and classic details.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a tailored, semi-fitted silhouette through the bodice, flaring gently into a structured skirt, cinched by a waist belt.
Collar & Neckline: a classic notched collar with a defined stand, creating a smart and professional neckline.
Front Closure: a sleek fly front button closure ensures a clean and uninterrupted line down the front of the garment.
Sleeves: Long, two-piece set-in sleeves, tailored to provide a comfortable and polished arm fit.
Waist & Details: Features a defined waist with belt loops and a removable self-fabric belt for adjustable styling. The skirt section includes both front and back pleats for added shape and movement.
Seaming: Sculpting princess seams on both the front and back enhance the garment's contoured fit.
Length: Designed to fall above the knee, offering a modern and versatile length.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Requires confident sewing skills, including precise collar and fly front construction, setting two-piece sleeves, working with interfacing and lining, and managing multiple tailored seams.
Fabric Recommendations
Achieve the best results with structured fabrics that hold shape well, suitable for tailored garments:
- Suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
- 6 buttons
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back upper – 2 qty
- Back lower – 1 qty on fold
- Front central upper – 2 qty
- Front side upper – 2 qty
- Front lower — 2 qty
- Back neckline facing – 1 qty
- Underlap – 2 qty
- Sleeve upper – 2 qty
- Sleeve lower – 2 qty
- Lower collar – 1 qty
- Upper collar – 1 qty
- From lining fabric:
- Back upper – 2 qty
- Back lower – 1 qty on fold
- Front central upper – 2 qty
- Front side upper – 2 qty
- Front lower — 2 qty
- Sleeve upper – 2 qty
- Sleeve lower – 2 qty
- Fly front lining – 2 qty
Attention: lining pieces are cut with the underlap and neckline facing deducted.
From fusible interfacing: front central, upper collar, underlap, back neckline facing, fly front lining – 1 qty, armhole sections and hem seam allowances.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the pieces.
- Stitch darts on the upper back. Press darts towards the center back. On the lower back, create and secure a box pleat according to markings. Attach the lower back to the upper back. Press seam allowances upwards.
- Stitch the relief seams of the front. Press seam allowances towards the center front. On the lower front, create a pleat according to markings. Direct the depth towards the side seam. Attach the lower front to the upper, press seam allowances upwards.
- Mark the buttonhole opening with three lines on the right underlap's right side: the first line is parallel to the edge and is 1.5 cm from the finished edge; the second and third lines define the length of the opening. Place the fused facing on the right side of the underlap, right side down, from the edge, aligning the FACING's cut edge with the marked line. Stitch 0.5 cm from the marked line along the buttonhole opening up to the lines defining its length. Place the second buttonhole facing butt-to-butt against the stitching of the first facing and stitch 0.5 cm away. Check the facing attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut the opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the buttonhole opening. Turn the facings through the opening to the wrong side, forming a frame from the fused facing equal to the width between the stitches. Stitch a securing line into the facing attachment seam. Press the second facing towards the inner edge of the underlap and stitch a securing line 0.1 cm from the facing attachment seam. Mark and overlock buttonholes. Buttonholes are made on the underlap together with the fused facing. Straighten and secure the ends of the opening from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the facing edges. Place bar tacks between each pair of buttonholes, the length of the bar tack is equal to the width of the frame. Press the underlap.
- Place the underlap on the right side of the front, right side down, pin, and stitch along the edge. Stitching is done from the front side upwards to the notch that defines the end of the collar attachment. Attach the lower edges of the underlaps to the front strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower edges. Topstitch the seam allowance of the edge: in the buttonhole area – onto the underlap, in the lapel area – onto the front edge. The stitching is 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the edges to the right side, straighten the seams.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams of the garment. Press seam allowances open.
- Fold collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end the seam strictly at the marked collar attachment seamline to the neckline. Turn the collar to the right side and press.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and underlap. Press seam allowances open. Attach the upper collar to the neckline of the main garment, and the lower collar to the neckline of the back facing and underlap. Press seam allowances open. Secure the collar attachment seam allowances close to the seams.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Attach sleeves to the armhole, easing the sleeve at the top of the cap and aligning notches. Attach shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- Stitch lining pieces similarly to the main pieces, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the underlaps and the back neckline facing. Finish the garment hem with the lining.
- Attach the lining to the bottom of the sleeves. Turn the coat to the right side. Close the technical opening.
- Topstitch along the fly front. Sew buttons on the left front.
