Wrap Front Lapel Jacket with Pleats
Introducing a sophisticated women's jacket pattern featuring a distinctive wrap front, an elegant draping lapel, and unique pleated detailing on the right front.
When To Wear
This versatile jacket is perfect for adding a touch of modern elegance to various ensembles, suitable for:
- Professional Settings: Ideal for office wear, business meetings, or smart casual professional attire.
- Evening & Social Gatherings: a chic layer for dinner dates, cocktail parties, or upscale social events.
- Everyday Elegance: Elevates casual outfits, adding a polished and contemporary finish to daily wear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a tailored, fitted silhouette with a gently shaped waist, extending to hip length for a flattering line.
Neckline & Collar: Features an elegant V-neckline formed by a soft, draping lapel that creates a sophisticated wrapped look.
Closure: a stylish wrap front secured by a single button on the right side, offering a modern asymmetric appeal.
Front Detail: The right front panel is adorned with distinctive horizontal pleats, adding texture and visual interest to the design.
Sleeves: Full-length, two-piece set-in sleeves designed for a sleek, tailored finish.
Back: Constructed with flattering princess seams extending from the armhole to the hem, ensuring a contoured and elegant fit.
Hem: a subtly shaped hemline, gently curved for a refined and contemporary finish.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires experience with tailoring techniques, including lapel construction, setting in sleeves, and working with lining and fusible interfacing.
Fabric Recommendations
Achieve the best drape and structure with suiting materials such as:
- Suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- Lining fabric
- 3 buttons
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back center – qty 2
- Back side – qty 2
- Front right – qty 1
- Front left – qty 1
- Collar - qty 4
- Placket - qty 1
- Front facing right – qty 1
- Front facing left – qty 1
- Back neckline facing – qty 1
- Sleeve upper – qty 2
- Sleeve lower - qty 2
- From lining fabric:
- Front right – qty 1
- Front left – qty 1
- Back center – qty 2
- Back side – qty 2
- Sleeve upper – qty 2
- Sleeve lower - qty 2
The lining pieces for the center back panels and the left and right front panels are cut with the width of the neckline facing and front facings subtracted, respectively.
From fusible interfacing: placket, left and right front facings, back neckline facing, outer collar, jacket hem and sleeve hem.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse all pieces with fusible interfacing.
- On the back, stitch and press darts towards the center. Stitch and press open the back princess seams. Stitch and press open the center back seam.
- Stitch the dart and trim the depth on the left front. Press open the bust dart. On the right front, stitch and press the pleats according to markings (depths pointing downwards). Press the placket in half lengthwise, right side out, and attach the outer side to the right front.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
- Stitch the center seams of the collars, press seam allowances open. Place collars right sides together and stitch the ends and outer edge. Trim seam allowances at corners, clip at curves. Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press. Attach the collar to the neckline.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings. Attach the right front facing to the inner side of the placket. Place the front facings and facing with the front right sides together and stitch the left front edge, neckline, and lower corner, stopping 1.5 cm before the edge of the front facing. Trim seam allowances at corners, clip at curves. Turn the front edges to the right side, shape the seams.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve.
- Attach the sleeves to the armholes, matching notches, easing the sleeve cap. Attach shoulder pads and sleeve head rolls.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams and attach the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and facings. Attach the lining to the bottom of the garment and the sleeve hem. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve closed.
- On the placket, make buttonholes, and on the left front, sew on buttons. Make a buttonhole on the left front, sew on the inner button.
