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#5522
#5524

Square Neck Puff Sleeve Midi Dress

Pattern #5523
Tech. Description

Square Neck Puff Sleeve Midi Dress

Introducing a charming women's dress pattern featuring a flattering square neckline, whimsical puff sleeves, and a gracefully flared midi skirt constructed from multiple panels.

When To Wear

This dress is designed for elegant yet comfortable wear, making it an ideal choice for:

  • Casual Day Outings: Perfect for strolls, brunches, or market visits in pleasant weather.
  • Spring & Summer Events: Ideal for garden parties, outdoor gatherings, or daytime celebrations.
  • Vacation & Travel: a comfortable yet chic option for exploring new destinations.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: a fitted bodice with a defined natural waist flows into a voluminous, flared midi skirt, creating an elegant and comfortable silhouette.

Neckline: a distinct square neckline frames the décolletage with a classic, flattering shape.

Closure: An invisible zipper is neatly concealed in the center back seam for a seamless finish.

Sleeves: Short, puffed sleeves feature gathered caps and elasticated hems, offering a romantic and airy aesthetic.

Waist: The natural waistline is emphasized by horizontal seams and contoured side panels, creating a well-defined and flattering shape.

Skirt: The midi-length skirt is meticulously constructed with numerous vertical panels (gores), resulting in a wide, flowing hemline with beautiful drape and movement.

Back: The back mirrors the front's panel construction, featuring a center back seam where the invisible zipper is discreetly placed.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Requires careful panel matching, precise invisible zipper insertion, and accurate handling of elastic for the sleeve hems.

Fabric Recommendations

Choose light to medium weight woven fabrics with a soft drape to enhance the skirt's flow:

  • Viscose
  • Rayon
  • Cotton Lawn
  • Challis
  • Linen blends

Additional Supplies

  • 25 cm invisible zipper
  • Lining fabric
  • Elastic tape
  • Fusible interfacing for facings

Cutter's Must

  • From main fabric:
  • 1. Center upper front – qty 1
  • 2. Side upper front – qty 2
  • 3. Center lower front – qty 2
  • 4. Lower middle front – qty 2
  • 5. Lower side front – qty 2
  • 6. Gusset – qty 12
  • 7. Lower side back – qty 2
  • 8. Center lower back – qty 2
  • 9. Side upper back – qty 2
  • 10. Center upper back – qty 2
  • 11. Middle lower back – qty 2
  • 12. Sleeve – qty 2
  • From lining fabric:
  • 13. Center back – qty 2
  • 14. Side back – qty 2
  • 15. Center upper front – qty 1
  • 16. Center lower front – qty 1
  • 17. Side front – qty 2
  • From fusible interfacing: armhole facing for front and back.

Sewing Instructions

  1. Reinforce the armhole facing of the front and back with fusible interfacing.
  2. Mark and stitch the bust darts on the front. Press darts towards the center.
  3. Mark and stitch the bust darts on the lining of the upper front. Press darts towards the center. Stitch the lining pieces of the front and back. Overlock and press the seam allowances towards the back. Overlock the lower edge of the lining, press to the wrong side of the lining, and topstitch. Overlock the center edge of the lining, stitch up to the notch for the zipper, and press open.
  4. Attach the gusset to the center lower front, overlock the attachment seam allowance 4 cm above the notch. Stitch and overlock the center seam of the center lower front and the side edge of the gusset. Press the center seam, pressing the side edges of the gusset.
  5. Attach the gusset to the lower middle front, overlock the attachment seam allowance 4 cm above the notch. Attach the middle lower front with the gusset to the center lower front. Overlock and press the attachment seam allowance, pressing the side edge of the gusset.
  6. Attach the center upper front to the center lower, overlock and press the attachment seam allowance towards the lower. Attach the upper side front to the lower side. Overlock and press the attachment seam allowance of the side front pieces towards the lower. Attach the gusset to the side front, overlock the attachment seam allowance 4 cm above the notch. Stitch the princess seams of the front and the side edge of the gusset, overlock and press the princess seams, pressing the side edges of the gusset.
  7. Attach the gusset to the center lower back, overlock the attachment seam allowance 4 cm above the notch. Attach the middle lower back to the center lower back. Overlock and press the attachment seam allowance, pressing the side edges of the gusset.
  8. Attach the upper of the center back to the lower of the center back, overlock and press the attachment seam allowance towards the lower. Attach the gusset to the side back, overlock the attachment seam allowance 4 cm above the notch. Stitch the princess seam of the back and the side edge of the gusset, overlock and press the princess seams, pressing the side edge of the gusset.
  9. Attach the gusset to the side front, overlock the attachment seam allowance 4 cm above the notch. Stitch the side seams of the dress and the gusset. Overlock the side seams of the dress gusset. Press the side seams, pressing the side seam of the gusset.
  10. Attach the gusset to the right center back. Overlock the right center edge of the back and the side edge of the gusset. Overlock the left center edge of the back and the side edge of the gusset. Stitch the center seam of the back and the left side edge of the gusset up to the notch for the zipper. Press open the center seam of the back, press the side edges of the gusset and the zipper openings. Insert the invisible zipper into the center seam of the back.
  11. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the dress.
  12. Place the lining and the dress right sides together, stitch the neckline edge. Topstitch the seam allowances to the lining of the front and back 0.2 cm from the stitching line. Align the center edge of the lining and the dress and secure at the zipper area.
  13. Along the sleeve cap between the notches, 0.5 cm from the edge, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches. Gather the sleeve edge to the desired amount, distributing the gathers evenly along the entire length. Overlock the lower edge of the sleeve, fold under and topstitch 1.2 cm from the edge. Cut elastic trim strip to size and thread it into the lower sleeve allowance. Stitch the sleeve edge and overlock. Press the stitching seam.
  14. Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches.
  15. Overlock the lower edge of the dress, fold under and topstitch 1 cm from the lower edge.

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