Paneled Full-Zip Hooded Jacket

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: rainwear fabrics (polyester, cotton, blended); lining fabric. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: Fusible interfacing; 1 separable zipper (zipper length depends on the front length of the garment including the collar stand height); 2 non-separable zippers (zipper length depends on the pocket length); elastic tape 4.5cm wide for cuffs; elastic cord for the hood; 2 cord ends; 2 metal eyelets; hook-and-loop fastener (Velcro).

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: for hemming the bottom of the main fabric pieces – 4.5cm, for the bottom of the lining – 0cm (lining reaches the bottom hem allowance), other seams 1cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces, as well as color scheme).

• MAIN FABRIC:
  • FRONT PANEL - 2 pieces
  • BACK PANEL - 1 piece
  • SIDE FRONT PANEL – 2 pieces
  • SIDE BACK PANEL – 2 pieces
  • UPPER SLEEVE PART - 2 pieces
  • LOWER SLEEVE PART - 2 pieces
  • SIDE SLEEVE PART - 4 pieces
  • SLEEVE INSERT - 2 pieces
  • HOOD - 2 pieces
  • CENTRAL HOOD PART - 1 piece
  • HOOD FACING – 1 piece
  • CUFF - 2 pieces
  • CUFF PLACKET - 2 pieces
  • TAB - 2 pieces
  • FRONT FACING - 2 pieces
  • LARGE POCKET BAG - 2 pieces
  • WELT - 2 pieces
• LINING:
  • FRONT PANEL - 2 pieces
  • BACK PANEL - 1 piece
  • SLEEVE - 2 pieces
  • SIDE FRONT PANEL – 2 pieces
  • SMALL POCKET BAG - 2 pieces
  • HOOD – 2 pieces
  • CENTRAL HOOD PART - 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

1. POCKETS WITH WELT AND ZIPPER. Interface the welt with fusible interfacing, fold it in half lengthwise, and press. Interface the pocket placement area with fusible interfacing. Mark a line on the welt indicating its finished width. Place the welt on the right side of the front panel, aligning the pocket marking lines and the line on the welt. The outer side of the welt should align with the right side of the front panel. Stitch the welt. Cut the pocket opening in the middle between the marking lines, making diagonal cuts towards the corners of the pocket marking. Turn the welt to the wrong side. Press the seam allowances open. Place the zipper under the pocket opening. From the right side of the front panel, stitch the zipper 0.1cm from the pocket opening. Stitch the small pocket bag to the lower zipper tape and turn it down. Stitch the large pocket bag to the upper zipper tape. Stitch the edges of the pocket bags. The edges of the pocket bags should enter the zipper insertion seam and reach the bottom line.
2. MAIN FABRIC ASSEMBLY. Stitch the side panels to the back and front panels, aligning the control marks on the front panel for slit processing. Slash the seam allowance for the slit on the side front panel. Stitch the sleeve inserts to the upper sleeve parts, then stitch the lower sleeve parts. Topstitch the attachment seams. Stitch the side sleeve parts to the central sleeve parts. Topstitch the attachment seams. Stitch the shoulder seams. Topstitch the shoulder seam along the back. Set the sleeves into the open armhole. Topstitch the sleeve insertion seams along the armhole. Stitch the side seams and sleeve seams. Stitch the hood parts. Topstitch the hood along the central part. Set the hood into the neckline. Install eyelets on the hood according to the markings.
3. LINING. Topstitch the front facing to the front panel lining, having previously pressed the inner edge of the front facing. Stitch the jacket lining, aligning the control marks for slit processing. Slash the seam allowance for the slit. Set the sleeves into the open armhole. Stitch the hood lining parts and connect them to the hood facing. Set the hood lining into the lining neckline.
4. CUFFS. Secure the elastic tape in the cuff and make decorative stitches. Interface the tab and cuff placket with fusible interfacing. Topstitch the hook-and-loop fastener (Velcro) onto the tab and cuff placket according to the markings. Finish the edges of the tab. Finish the edges of the cuff with the cuff placket, inserting the tab into the seam. Stitch the cuffs to the sleeves, catching the edge of the elastic in the seam.
5. ZIPPER CLOSURE. Fold one half of the zipper with the garment edge right sides together (teeth facing away from the edge). Finish the edges of the front panels and hood with the lining, simultaneously inserting the zipper. Turn the garment to the right side.
6. Stitch the lining to the cuffs.
7. Finish the slits with the lining.
8. Press the bottom hem allowance, first turning up 1cm, then 3.5cm. Topstitch the bottom hem.
9. Topstitch the front panels and hood of the jacket.
10. Press the finished jacket.
11. Insert the cord into the hood.