Fabric & Materials
MAIN FABRIC, LINING, SYNTHETIC PADDING
CUTTER'S MUST
- MAIN FABRIC:
- CENTRAL FRONT PANEL - QTY 2
- SIDE FRONT PANEL - QTY 2
- CENTRAL BACK PANEL - QTY 1
- SIDE BACK PANEL - QTY 2
- COLLAR - QTY 2
- LARGE POCKET BAG - QTY 2
- WELT - QTY 2
- Cut bias strips 3.5cm wide from the main fabric for making piping. The length of the strips depends on the length of the piping. ATTENTION! After making the piping, a 1 cm SEAM ALLOWANCE must remain. Otherwise, adjust the width of the cut strips yourself.
- LINING:
- FRONT PANEL - QTY 2
- BACK PANEL - QTY 1
- SMALL POCKET BAG - QTY 2
- SYNTHETIC PADDING:
- Reinforce the BACK PANEL, FRONT PANELs, and upper COLLAR pieces with synthetic padding, stitching them along the contour (BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL pieces are reinforced after attaching the SIDE PANELs).
Sewing Instructions
- MAKING THE PIPING. Stitch the strips together, press the seams open. Fold the resulting strip in half, insert a cord inside, and stitch along the contour of the cord.
- WELT POCKETS. Reinforce the WELT with FUSIBLE INTERFACING, fold it in half lengthwise, and press. Reinforce the pocket placement area with FUSIBLE INTERFACING. Mark a line on the WELT defining its finished width. Stitch the small pocket bag to the inner side of the WELT. Place the WELT with the pocket bag on the right side of the SIDE FRONT PANEL, aligning the pocket marking line with the line on the WELT. The outer side of the WELT should align with the right side of the FRONT PANEL. Stitch the WELT. Stitch the large pocket bag to the upper pocket marking line. Cut the pocket opening in the middle between the marking lines, making diagonal cuts towards the pocket marking corners. Turn the pocket pieces to the wrong side. Straighten and press the SEAM ALLOWANCES. Stitch the pocket bag edges, securing the pocket corners. The edges of the pocket bags should be included in the ZIPPER insertion seam and extend to the bottom hemline.
- ASSEMBLING THE MAIN GARMENT. Attach the SIDE PANELs to the BACK PANEL and FRONT PANELs, inserting the piping. Topstitch the attachment seams on the dark fabric pieces. Stitch the shoulder seams. Topstitch the shoulder seam on the BACK PANEL. Stitch the side seams. Insert the upper COLLAR into the neckline.
- LINING. Stitch the vest LINING. Insert the lower COLLAR into the LINING neckline.
- ZIPPER CLOSURE. Place one half of the ZIPPER closure with the garment edge right sides together (teeth facing away from the edge). FACING the edges of the garment and COLLAR with the LINING, simultaneously inserting the ZIPPER.
- FACING the armholes with the LINING and topstitch.
- On the bottom hem allowance, overcast buttonholes for the cord. Press the bottom hem allowance, turning up 1cm first, then 3.5cm. Topstitch the bottom hem allowance.
- Topstitch the edges and COLLAR of the vest.
- Press the finished vest.
- Insert an elastic cord with cord stoppers into the bottom of the garment from the wrong side.
