Stand Collar Belted Trench
Introducing a tailored women's trench coat featuring a striking stand collar, a fitted bodice with paneling, unique double-pocket detailing, and a sophisticated belted silhouette.
When To Wear
This refined trench coat is a versatile choice for adding polish to various ensembles, ideal for:
- Professional Settings: a sharp and elegant outer layer suitable for business meetings and office wear.
- Formal Events: An elevated coat for dressier occasions, providing warmth and style without compromising elegance.
- Everyday Chic: Perfect for adding a sophisticated touch to daily outfits, transitioning seamlessly from day to evening.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a fitted, knee-length trench coat with elegant vertical paneling and a defined waistline, leading to a subtle a-line lower body.
Neckline / Collar: a high stand collar with a distinctive square-front detail, highlighted by a contrasting fabric on the inner collar.
Closure: Single-breasted front with seven large button closures.
Sleeves: Long, tailored two-piece set-in sleeves for a smooth, fitted arm line.
Pockets: Large, functional patch pockets with decorative studded flaps are positioned at the hip, complemented by smaller, buttoned welt pockets placed just above them.
Back: Features a shaped back yoke, central seam, and elegant vertical seams that flow into a subtle basque detail at the lower back.
Waist: a matching fabric belt with a rectangular buckle cinches the waist, secured by narrow belt loops.
Length: Finishes gracefully at or just below the knee.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Requires expertise in tailoring techniques including complex collar and pocket construction, precise panel matching, lining installation, and managing multiple layers.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose fabrics with a soft drape and good structure to best showcase the design details:
- Thin, soft suiting wool fabrics
- Thin cashmere
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- Lining fabric
- Blouse-type shoulder pads
- 7 buttons (2.5 – 3.5 cm diameter)
- 8 buttons (1 – 1.3 cm diameter)
- 1 buckle (5 cm width)
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- 1. Back yoke – 2 qty
- 2. Front yoke – 2 qty
- 3. Back side – 2 qty
- 4. Back center – 2 qty
- 5. Back lower – 2 qty
- 6. Front side – 2 qty
- 7. Front central – 2 qty
- 8. Collar stand – 2 qty
- 9. Collar – 2 qty
- 10. Outer collar – 2 qty
- 11. Back neck facing – 1 qty
- 12. Front facing – 2 qty
- 13. Belt – 1 qty
- 14. Pocket front – 2 qty
- 15. Pocket side – 2 qty
- 16. Pocket frame – 2 qty
- 17. Basque – 1 qty on fold
- 18. Belt loop – 1 qty
- From lining fabric:
- 1. Back yoke – 2 qty
- 2. Front yoke – 2 qty
- 3. Back side – 2 qty
- 4. Back center – 2 qty
- 5. Back lower – 2 qty
- 6. Front side – 2 qty
- 7. Front central – 2 qty
- 8. Basque – 1 qty on fold
- 9. Pocket lining – 2 qty
- From fusible interfacing:
- 1. Front facing – 2 qty
- 2. Back neck facing – 1 qty
- 3. Collar – 1 qty
- 4. Collar stand – 1 qty
- 5. Outer collar – 1 qty
Attention: front and back lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the front facings and back neck facing respectively. Note: It is permissible to overlock the princess seams and side seam allowances of the main fabric and lining from the bottom to the waist.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the front facing, back neck facing, and collars. Fuse the armhole on the side front. Apply a 1 cm wide grain line tape along the upper sleeve edge from the neckline to the bottom of the sleeve on the front and back pieces. Fuse the corners at the armhole and neckline on the front and back Yokes.
- Stitch the side and center back pieces, as well as the center back seam. Press seams open. Stitch the back Yokes together, press seam open. Clip the corner on the back yoke at the start of the armhole. Attach the back yoke to the main piece. Press seam open. Stitch the lower armhole and sleeve cap sections on the back. Press seam towards the sleeve.
- Place the basque and lining right sides together and stitch along the lower edge. Turn pieces right side out, press. Topstitch the seam allowances along the lower edge to the lining. Then treat the basque as a single-layer piece. Create pleats along the upper edge of the basque. The inner folds of the pleats should be directed towards the center back. Secure the pleats along the upper edge.
- On the lower back, stitch the darts. Press darts towards the center seam. Stitch the center edge of the lower back. Press seam open and overlock. Secure the basque to the lower back along the upper and side edges. Stitch the upper and lower back pieces. Press seam upwards.
- Attach the side front pieces to the central ones. Press the princess seam open and overlock. Clip the corner on the front yoke at the start of the armhole. Attach the yoke to the front. Press seam open. Stitch the lower armhole and sleeve cap sections on the front. Press seam towards the armhole.
- Pocket. Stitch the pocket frame and pocket side. Press seam towards the side piece. Form a 1 cm wide pocket frame. Align the fold line of the frame with the center line (marked on the pattern). Press the frame. Stitch a securing line along the seam attaching the frame to the side piece. Similarly, attach the pocket front. Place the pocket and lining right sides together and stitch all edges except the side. Turn pieces right side out and press. Sew on buttons. Button placement is marked on the pocket lining pattern. Topstitch the pocket according to the markings. Only the front and bottom sides of the pocket are topstitched. The side edge is not topstitched.
- Stitch the upper sleeve edges. Press seams open. Stitch the lower sleeve edges and side edges with a single seam. Press seams open and overlock.
- Place collar pieces right sides together and stitch. Clip the seam at the curves, turn the collar right side out and press. Place collar stand pieces right sides together, insert the collar between them. Stitch only the upper edge of the collar stand. Turn pieces right side out and press. Place outer collar pieces right sides together and stitch. Turn the collar right side out and press. Secure the outer collar to the collar stand along the lower edge. Clip the corner on the front neckline. Set the collar into the neckline. Set the ends of the collar stand into the front neckline. Clip the seam at the curves and press towards the front and back.
- Stitch the shoulder edges of the back neck facing and front facing. Press seams open. Clip the corner on the front facing neckline.
- Place the front facing and front right sides together and stitch the front edge and neckline. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge from the bottom to the yoke onto the front facing. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Attach the lower edge of the front facing to the front strictly along the marked hemline, stopping 1.5 cm before the inner edge of the front facing. Trim the seam of the lower front corner. Turn the front edge to the right side, straighten the seams. Press the collar and front edges.
- Overlock one side (long) of the belt loop. Fold the unoverlocked edge inwards and cover with the overlocked edge. Stitch two parallel lines 0.1 cm from the edge. Cut the belt loops. Attach the belt loops to the side edge.
