Double-breasted Notched Lapel Short Coat
A tailored women's short coat featuring a classic double-breasted front, sharp notched lapels, and a structured silhouette.
When To Wear
This versatile short coat is perfect for adding a touch of polish to various ensembles, suitable for:
- Business & Professional Settings: Elevates office attire with its structured and refined design.
- Smart Casual Outings: Provides sophisticated layering for lunches, gallery visits, or everyday elegance.
- Transitional Weather: Offers ideal warmth and style for cooler seasons without the bulk of a full-length coat.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a finely tailored, semi-fitted silhouette that gracefully skims the body, ending at the upper thigh.
Neckline & Collar: Classic notched lapels with a well-defined collar stand, offering a sophisticated frame for the décolletage.
Closure: Double-breasted front with four visible pairs of buttons (eight buttons total) for a secure and stylish fastening.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves, expertly shaped to provide a clean and tailored line to the arm.
Pockets: Two generously sized flap pockets positioned low on the front, each secured with two small buttons.
Back: Features precise seaming, including a center back seam and vertical side back seams, to ensure a sculpted fit.
Length: a chic short coat length, falling to the upper thigh, offering versatility and ease of movement.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. This pattern requires confident tailoring skills, including precise lapel and collar construction, setting in two-piece sleeves, and working with lining and interfacing.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose structured coat fabrics that hold their shape well, made from natural or blended fibers:
- Coat fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- 8 large buttons
- 10 small buttons
- 1 internal button
- Lining fabric
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back center – 2 qty
- Back side – 2 qty
- Front side – 2 qty
- Front center – 2 qty
- Facing – 2 qty
- Back neckline facing – 1 qty
- Lower collar - 1 qty
- Upper collar - 1 qty
- Pocket – 2 qty
- Flap – 4 qty
- Upper sleeve – 2 qty
- Lower sleeve – 2 qty
- From lining fabric:
- Back center – 2 qty
- Back side – 2 qty
- Front side – 2 qty
- Front center – 2 qty
- Upper sleeve – 2 qty
- Lower sleeve – 2 qty
- Pocket – 2 qty
- Flap – 2 qty
Attention: The center back and center front pieces are cut by subtracting the width of the back neckline facing and facing respectively.
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front center – 2 qty
- Front side – 2 qty
- Facing – 2 qty
- Back neckline facing – 1 qty
- Upper collar – 1 qty
- Flap – 2 qty
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse the corresponding pieces with fusible interfacing, as well as the seam allowances of the garment hem and sleeve hem.
- Place the flap piece with the lining right sides together and stitch along the side and shaped edges. Trim the corner seam allowances, clip at curves. Turn the flap right side out, smooth, and press. Overlock the raw edge of the flap.
- Place the pocket piece with the lining right sides together and stitch around the perimeter, leaving an opening for turning. Trim the corner seam allowances, turn the pocket right side out, smooth, and press. Sew up the technical opening.
- Place the upper collar with the lower collar and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Trim seam allowances at corners, clip at the notch. Turn the collar right side out, smooth, and press.
- Place the facing on the right side of the front, face down, pin, and stitch along the edge. Stitching is performed from the front side up to the notch, which defines the end of the collar insertion. Stitch the lower edges of the facings to the front strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seam allowances of the upper and lower corners of the edge, clip at the notch. Topstitch the seam allowance of the edge stitching: in the fastener area – onto the facing, in the lapel area – onto the front edge. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the edges right side out, smooth the seams.
- Stitch and press open the center back seam. Stitch and press open the princess seams of the back and front. Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams.
- Mark the pocket placement. Topstitch the pocket according to the marking. Measure 1.5 cm down from the upper edge of the pocket and mark the flap placement. Place the flap on the marking and stitch. Turn the flap down and topstitch 0.5 cm from the stitching seam.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and facing. Insert the lower collar into the coat neckline, and the upper collar into the neckline edge of the back facing and facing.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve.
- Insert the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams and insert the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam.
- Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the facings and the back neckline facing. Press open the seam allowances of the collar insertion seams and secure close to the seams.
- Stitch the lining to the hem of the jacket and sleeve. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve.
- On the right front, overlock the buttonholes, and on the left front, sew on the buttons. Sew decorative buttons on the right front and on the sleeve vents. Overlock the inner buttonhole on the left front at the waist. Accordingly, sew a button on the inside of the right front.
