Lined Princess Seam Jacket with Flap Pockets
Introducing a sophisticated women's lined jacket pattern, meticulously crafted with princess seams for a tailored fit and refined flap pockets.
When To Wear
This versatile jacket is designed for a polished and professional look, suitable for:
- Business & Professional Settings: Ideal for meetings, office wear, or any environment requiring a smart, authoritative presence.
- Formal & Semi-Formal Events: Perfect for pairing with matching trousers or a skirt for elegant evening occasions or daytime ceremonies.
- Everyday Sophistication: Elevates casual outfits, offering a touch of tailored elegance for daily wear or social gatherings.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted through the body with shaping princess seams on both front and back, creating a flattering, structured profile.
Neckline & Collar: Classic notched lapel collar with a defined stand, framing the face elegantly.
Closure: Single-breasted front with three distinctive large buttons.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with a tailored fit, finished with three smaller decorative buttons at each cuff.
Pockets: Functional welt pockets with crisp flaps, strategically placed at the hip for both style and utility.
Back: Sculpted by vertical princess seams, ensuring a smooth, contoured fit across the shoulders and waist.
Length: Hip-length, designed to sit gracefully at the natural hip line.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires familiarity with lining construction, setting sleeves, constructing notched collars, and creating welt pockets.
Fabric Recommendations
Select suiting fabrics with good body and drape to achieve the structured yet comfortable fit:
- Suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing
- 3 buttons (approx. 20mm diameter)
- 6 buttons (approx. 12mm diameter)
- Shoulder pads
Fabric & Materials
From FUSIBLE INTERFACING: reinforce the FACING pieces, back neckline FACING, lower COLLAR, and pocket flaps with interfacing. Additionally, iron FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the SEAM ALLOWANCES for the hem of the BACK PANEL pieces.
CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- 1. Center FRONT PANEL - QTY 2
- 2. Side FRONT PANEL - QTY 2
- 3. Center BACK PANEL - QTY 2
- 4. Side BACK PANEL - QTY 2
- 5. Upper SLEEVE - QTY 2
- 6. Lower SLEEVE - QTY 2
- 7. Upper COLLAR - QTY 1
- 8. Lower COLLAR - QTY 1
- 9. Front FACING - QTY 2
- 10. Back neckline FACING - QTY 1
- 11. Pocket FACING - QTY 4
- 12. Pocket stay - QTY 2
- 13. Pocket flap - QTY 2
- From LINING fabric:
- 14. Upper pocket bag - QTY 2
- 15. Lower pocket bag - QTY 2
- 16. Center BACK PANEL - QTY 2
- 17. Center FRONT PANEL - QTY 2
- 18. Side BACK PANEL – QTY 2
- 19. Side FRONT PANEL – QTY 2
- 20. Upper SLEEVE - QTY 2
- 21. Lower SLEEVE - QTY 2
- 22. Pocket flap - QTY 2
Sewing Instructions
- Reinforce the front FACINGs, lower COLLAR, pocket flaps, and back neckline FACING with FUSIBLE INTERFACING (heat-activated interfacings are ironed to the wrong side of the piece with a hot iron).
- Stitch the BACK PANEL along the center line.
- Stitch the princess seams of the BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL.
- Create WELT POCKETS WITH TWO FACINGS AND FLAPS: Stitch the flap pieces from main and LINING fabrics right sides together along the side and bottom edges. Topstitch the edges 1 mm from the edge.
- On the wrong side of the FRONT PANEL, iron a strip of interfacing approximately 4 cm wide over the pocket marking.
- Place two pocket FACINGs right sides together with the FRONT PANEL, pin along the pocket opening marking, and stitch, ensuring that the longitudinal edges of the FACINGs align with the center line of the pocket marking.
- Cut the FRONT PANEL lengthwise between the stitching lines, diagonally towards the ends of the stitching lines. Be careful not to damage the FACINGs!
- Press the cut edges away from the openings.
- Turn the FACINGs through the slit to the wrong side to form a neat frame, and baste, aligning the folded edges of the FACINGs in the middle of the pocket openings. Stitch into the attachment seams.
- Turn the small triangles at the ends of the slit to the wrong side and stitch them to the FACINGs precisely from the ends of the upper stitching line to the ends of the lower one.
- Insert the raw edges of the flaps between the FACINGs, stitch into the attachment seams of the upper FACINGs.
- Fold under the SEAM ALLOWANCES of one of the long sides of the pocket stay and topstitch the pocket stay onto the upper pocket bag.
- From the inside, stitch the pocket bags to the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the flap attachments and to the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the lower FACING attachments.
- Trim the pocket bags, evening them out, and stitch them together.
- Stitch the side seams of the jacket.
- Stitch the shoulder seams.
- Attach the lower COLLAR to the neckline; stitch the shoulder seams of the back neckline FACING and front FACINGs, attach the upper COLLAR to the neckline of the FACING and front FACINGs; press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open, clip curves.
- Place the upper COLLAR, combined with the front FACINGs, onto the main garment right side in and stitch the front edges and COLLAR; turn right side out and press; hand-stitch the edge of the upper COLLAR to the neckline.
- From the right side of the garment, turn out and straighten the front edge and COLLAR, baste.
- Reinforce the SEAM ALLOWANCE for the sleeve hem and the vent with FUSIBLE INTERFACING.
- Stitch the SLEEVE seams, leaving the vents open at the elbow seams of the SLEEVES.
- Above the vent marking, clip the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the lower SLEEVE pieces. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open above the vent.
- Finish the SLEEVES with a hem. Press the vent edges on the upper SLEEVE pieces to the wrong side. Pin the vents, topstitch the vent edges together from the inside.
- Gather the SLEEVE cap with small, frequent stitches between the indicated markings and pull the thread until it matches the corresponding distance on the armhole of the garment. Dampen the fabric and shrink the gathers with the tip of a hot iron.
- Pin the SLEEVE to the garment, aligning the control NOTCHES, and stitch, sewing from the SLEEVE side.
- Attach shoulder pads.
- LINING - Create a ease pleat and secure it under the neckline and a few centimeters above the hemline of the garment.
- Stitch the darts on the LINING pieces.
- Stitch the LINING pieces similarly to the main garment, leaving an unstitched section of about 20 cm on the elbow seam of one of the SLEEVES.
- Insert the LINING into the main garment right sides together, aligning along the center back line and shoulder seams.
- Stitch the main garment to the LINING along the front FACINGs and neckline.
- At the bottom, create a ease pleat and stitch the LINING to the hem edge.
- Turn the garment right side out through the unstitched SLEEVE section, then stitch this section closed.
- Make buttonholes on the right FRONT PANEL according to the markings and sew on the buttons.
