Fitted Jacket with Sleeve Turnups
Introducing a sophisticated women's fitted jacket pattern, featuring sharp tailoring, elegant notched lapels, and stylish sleeve turnups with contrasting cuffs.
When To Wear
This tailored jacket is perfect for adding a touch of elegance and professionalism to various occasions:
- Professional Settings: Ideal for office wear, business meetings, and corporate events.
- Smart Casual Outings: Elevates a casual ensemble for dinners, brunches, or sophisticated gatherings.
- Formal & Semi-Formal Events: Pairs beautifully with coordinated trousers or a skirt for refined social occasions.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a close-fitting, tailored silhouette that accentuates the waist with shaping seams.
Collar & Lapel: Classic notched lapel collar, expertly drafted for a sharp, refined neckline.
Closure: Single-breasted front with a three-button closure.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves finished with contrasting turn-up cuffs, designed for a clean, tailored fit.
Pockets: Functional flapped welt pockets at the hip level.
Back: Shaped with princess seams from the shoulder to the hem, ensuring a contoured fit.
Length: Sits at the hip, offering a versatile length for various pairings.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Requires proficient tailoring skills including precise welt pocket construction, setting two-piece sleeves with easing, collar & lapel assembly, and working with interfacing.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose medium-weight woven fabrics with good body and drape to achieve a crisp, structured finish:
- Suiting fabrics such as wool blends, gabardine, or sturdy crepe
- Twill or heavy linen blends for a sophisticated, structured look
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing for front facings, back neckline facing, lower collar, and lower cuffs
- 3 buttons for front closure
- Lining fabric for pocket bags
- Sleeve head wadding or roll (approx. 4 cm wide strip)
Cutter's Must
- Main fabric:
- Center front - 2 qty
- Upper side - 2 qty
- Lower side - 2 qty
- Center back - 2 qty
- Side back - 2 qty
- Back neckline facing - 1 qty
- Lower collar - 1 qty
- Upper collar - 1 qty
- Upper sleeve - 2 qty
- Lower sleeve - 2 qty
- Pocket bag - 2 qty
- Front facing - 2 qty
- Lower cuff - 2 qty
- Upper cuff - 2 qty
- Trim:
- Upper collar facing - 1 qty
- Upper cuff facing - 2 qty
- Pocket facing - 4 qty
- Interfacing:
- Front facing - 2 qty
- Back neckline facing - 1 qty
- Lower collar - 1 qty
- Lower cuff - 2 qty
Sewing Instructions
- Sew the front princess seams.
- Welt pockets. Fold both bias facings of each pocket with the front, right sides together, pin along the marked pocket opening line and stitch along the marked stitching lines, aligning the longitudinal edges of the facings precisely with the pocket opening line.
- Cut the front lengthwise between the stitching lines, diagonally towards the front ends of the stitching lines. Be careful not to damage the facings!
- Press the seam allowances open. Turn the facings, enclosing the seam allowances, through the slit to the wrong side and baste.
- From the right side, stitch precisely into the facing attachment seams.
- Turn the small triangle at the front end of the slit to the wrong side and topstitch onto the facings precisely from the end of one stitching line to the end of the other.
- Join the folds of the facings with a velvet stitch.
- From the wrong side of the jacket, attach the pocket bags: the pocket bag made of lining fabric - to the seam allowances of the lower facing attachment seam, the pocket bag made of main fabric - to the seam allowances of the upper facing attachment seam.
- Press the pocket bags downwards, trim, equalize, and stitch together.
- Sew the back princess seams, side seams, and shoulder seams. When sewing the side seams, do not catch the side edges of the pocket bags.
- Two-piece sleeves. Sew the sleeve seam.
- Stitch the cuff facings to the upper cuff. Stitch the side seam of the cuffs, facing the upper cuff with the lower, turn out and press.
- Fold the cuffs right side to the wrong side of the sleeve. Stitch the lower edge of the sleeve and cuff. Turn out the cuff.
- Set in the sleeves, easing the sleeve caps. To the seam allowances of each sleeve attachment seam in the sleeve cap area, sew a strip of wadding approximately 4 cm wide.
- Stitch the collar and facing. Neatly stitch the collar along the outer contour and, taking the open edges together, baste into the neckline.
- Fold the front facings right sides together with the front panels and topstitch to the lapels and lapels up to the collar attachment point. Notch the seam allowance near this point.
- Attach the back neckline facing to the upper ends of the front facings.
- Place the collar with open edges between the jacket and the front facings with the facing, the lower collar lies on the jacket. Attach the upper collar to the neckline of the front facings and facing. Set in the lower collar into the jacket neckline.
- Clip the seam allowances at the curves multiple times. Press the seam allowances open.
- Turn the front facings and facing to the wrong side, press the edges. From the inside, sew the collar attachment seam allowances in the back neckline area.
- Turn the front facings forward. Turn the hem seam allowances to the wrong side up to the lapels, sew. Turn the front facings back to the wrong side, sew to the hem seam allowances. Hem the jacket. Sew the front facings to the hem.
- Sew shoulder pads to the sleeve attachment seam allowances and to the shoulder seam allowances.
- On the right front, overlock 3 buttonholes. Sew on buttons.
