Structured Shirt with Curved Hem and Rolled-Up Sleeves
Introducing a women's sewing pattern for a structured tunic shirt featuring a partial button placket, unique two-piece flap pockets, and versatile rolled-up sleeves with a curved hem.
When To Wear
This tunic shirt is versatile for various occasions, making it a stylish choice for:
- Casual Everyday: Comfortable yet stylish for daily wear, pairing well with jeans or leggings.
- Smart Casual: Can be dressed up for office environments or relaxed social gatherings.
- Travel: Practical rolled sleeves and a relaxed fit make it an excellent layering piece for trips.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a relaxed, tunic-length fit that drapes loosely over the body, extending past the hips.
Neckline & Collar: Features a classic shirt collar with a separate collar stand for a crisp finish.
Closure: a partial button placket extends from the collar down the front, creating a pullover style shirt with functional buttons.
Sleeves: Long sleeves equipped with tabs and buttons, allowing them to be stylishly rolled up and secured at elbow or three-quarter length.
Pockets: Distinctive two-piece flap pockets are integrated into angular seam lines on the front bodice, adding a unique design element.
Back: Designed with a horizontal back yoke and vertical seams for shaping, contributing to the shirt's structured yet comfortable fit.
Hem: a gracefully curved, shirt-tail hem adds a soft finish to the tunic length.
Details: Front and back yokes, along with thoughtfully placed angular seams on the front, create visual interest and structure.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Involves techniques such as collar & stand construction, partial placket application, flap pockets with angular seams, and roll-up sleeve tabs.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose light to medium-weight shirting and blouse fabrics with good drape and structure:
- Blouse fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- 10 buttons
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem – 1.5 cm; top pocket allowance – 2 cm; other seams – 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can range from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Center back piece - 1 piece
- Side back piece – 2 pieces
- Back yoke – 1 piece
- Front piece - 1 piece
- Front insert – 2 pieces
- Front yoke – 2 pieces
- Placket — 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Sleeve tab – 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Flap – 4 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar stand – 1 piece
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Collar – 1 piece
- Flap – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch the back princess seams, overlock the allowances and press towards the center. Attach the back yoke to the back. Press the allowance towards the yoke and overlock. Overlock the bottom edge of the back. Fold the allowance inwards and topstitch.
- Overlock the top edge of the pocket. Fold the allowance inwards and topstitch along the side edges. Fold the side allowances inwards and press. Place the pocket on the front piece according to the markings and topstitch. Fold the flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the side and bottom edges. Turn the flap right side out and press. Place the flap right side down on the front insert (the bottom edge of the flap pointing away from the edge) and secure along the princess seam. Stitch the front princess seam. Overlock the allowance and press towards the center.
- Attach the yoke to the front piece. Overlock the allowance and press towards the yoke. Overlock the bottom edge of the front piece. Fold the allowance inwards and topstitch.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams, press the allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Fold the plackets lengthwise, right side out, and press. On the right placket, overlock the buttonholes. Attach the plackets to the right side of the front piece along the long edge, stopping 1 cm from the bottom. Clip the front piece allowance at the corners, stopping 1 mm from the stitching line. Tuck the ends of the plackets inwards and stitch, securing the bottom edge. Overlock the allowances.
- Fold the upper collar and undercollar right sides together. Stitch the ends and outer edge of the collar. Trim the seams. Turn the collar right side out, shape and press. Fold the collar stand pieces right sides together, insert the finished collar between them, align the notches and stitch, simultaneously stitching the ends of the collar stand. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked line of the collar stand attachment seam. Turn the finished collar stand right side out and press. Attach the upper collar stand to the neckline. Fold the allowance of the lower collar stand inwards and stitch into the seam.
- Fold the tabs lengthwise in the middle, right sides together, and stitch along the long and short edges. Turn right side out, trimming allowances at the corners, shape and press. Overlock the open short edge. Topstitch the tabs to the wrong side of the sleeves according to the markings.
- Stitch the sleeve seams, press towards the back and overlock. Set the sleeves into the armholes, press the allowances and overlock.
- Overlock the sleeve hem, fold inwards and topstitch.
- On the left front piece - sew on buttons. Overlock buttonholes on the tabs, collar stand, and flap. Sew on buttons on the sleeves, collar stand, flap, and placket.
