Belted Lapel Vest Asymmetrical Hem
Introducing a sophisticated women's sewing pattern for a tailored, sleeveless vest featuring a chic lapel collar, a defined belted waist, and a modern asymmetrical hem.
When To Wear
This versatile vest is perfect for adding a polished touch to various occasions, including:
- Business Casual: Offers a professional yet modern alternative to a blazer or light jacket in office settings.
- Daytime Chic: Elevates everyday outfits with its structured silhouette and fashionable details.
- Layering & Transitional Weather: Provides a stylish outer layer without the bulk of sleeves, ideal for changing seasons.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted through the bodice with a longline, sleeveless cut.
Neckline & Collar: a deep V-neckline framed by wide, sharply notched lapels.
Closure: The front is secured by a broad self-fabric belt, cinching the waist with a rectangular buckle.
Sleeves: Sleeveless design with clean, tailored armholes.
Pockets: Two tailored flap pockets are strategically placed on the lower front panels.
Back: Features vertical shaping seams and integrated belt loops to perfectly position the waist belt.
Hem: a distinctive asymmetrical front hem, with one side elegantly extending longer and pointed, while the back hem remains straight.
Waist: Accentuated and defined by a self-fabric belt with a buckle, threaded through belt loops.
Length: An extended length, falling to the upper thigh at its longest point in the front.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. This pattern requires skills in working with fusible interfacing, constructing princess seams, darts, and tailored flap pockets.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose suiting fabrics with good drape and body to achieve the desired tailored silhouette:
- Suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing
- 2 buttons
- Buckle
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 4 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances towards the center. Stitch the back center seam, press allowances open.
- Cut the front along the pocket line, stopping 1.0 cm before the vertical side of the dart. Stitch the dart, trim the bulk to 1 cm and press open. Secure the pocket opening with a stay tape or baste. Stitch the front princess seams, press allowances open.
- Place flap pieces right sides together and stitch along three sides. Trim seam allowances at flap corners, clip curves, turn right side out. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Mark the pocket placement. Fold pocket facings in half wrong sides together and press. Mark a guideline on the pocket facing parallel to the fold for attachment. Mark a guideline on the flap for attachment parallel to the top edge of the flap, measuring the flap width along its entire length. Mark guidelines parallel to the pocket opening for attaching the flap and pocket facings. Stitch the pocket lining to the flap. Stitch the facings to the front. The ends of the stitching should stop at the parallel pocket marking lines. Check the correctness of facing attachment from the wrong side (stitching should be parallel). Cut the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the facings through the opening to the wrong side, straighten the edges, adjust the ends of the facings so that the pressed folds of the facings meet flush. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Insert the flap into the pocket and stitch to the upper pocket facing. Stitch the lower pocket lining into the seam of the lower facing attachment, trim and stitch the pocket lining.
- Stitch shoulder seams, press allowances open.
- Stitch the center seam of the collar, press allowances open. Attach the one-piece collar to the neckline, clipping the allowance at the corner, clip and press allowances open.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings, press allowances open. Stitch the center seam of the collar, press allowance open. Attach the one-piece collar to the neckline of the facing, clipping the allowance at the corner, clip and press allowances open.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, and stitch the front edges and collar. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners. Turn front facings to the wrong side and press.
- On the lining pieces, stitch the seams, leaving an opening in the right side seam for turning later. Press allowances.
- Stitch the lining to the front facings and neckline facing, press allowances. Turn the garment right side out, straighten seams. Secure the collar attachment allowances together.
- Finish the bottom edge of the garment with lining. Turn right side out through the opening. Finish the armholes in two steps: first the back armhole, then the front armhole. Stitch the technical opening closed.
- Topstitch along the front edges and bottom edge 4 cm from the edge.
- Make buttonholes on the front. Sew on buttons: main and hidden.
- Serge one long edge of the belt loop. Fold the belt loop into three layers and topstitch along the long sides. Cut the belt loop into 4 pieces. Topstitch the belt loops onto the princess seams at the waist.
- Fold the belt in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch along the long and short sides. Turn the belt right side out, press. Serge the short side. Topstitch around the perimeter 0.5 cm from the edge. Thread and secure the buckle on the serged side of the belt. Punch holes.
