Hooded Drawstring Waist Jacket
Introducing a women's sewing pattern for a contemporary hooded jacket, distinguished by its adjustable drawstring waist, practical flap pockets, and versatile cuffed sleeves.
When To Wear
This versatile jacket is ideal for casual wear and transitional seasons, perfect for:
- Everyday Comfort: a stylish and practical layering piece for daily activities.
- Transitional Weather: Offers light protection during spring and autumn seasons.
- Casual Outdoors: Suitable for leisurely walks or light outdoor excursions.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Relaxed, hip-length silhouette, adjustable at the waist for a cinched or straight fit.
Neckline: Integrated three-piece hood provides warmth and a casual aesthetic, featuring a drawstring for adjustability.
Closure: Full-length separating zipper at the center front, partially concealed by a placket with two button closures.
Sleeves: Three-quarter length sleeves with dropped shoulders, designed to be rolled up and secured with a tab and button.
Pockets: Two large, functional patch pockets on the front, each topped with a classic flap.
Back: Clean back design featuring a casing for the drawstring at the waist.
Waist: Adjustable drawstring channeled through an internal casing at the waist, allowing for a customizable fit and silhouette.
Length: Finishes at the high hip/upper thigh, offering practical coverage.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires skills in zipper insertion, hood construction, creating a drawstring channel with eyelets, and assembling patch & flap pockets.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose durable yet comfortable materials that hold shape and offer weather protection:
- Raincoat fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing
- Separating zipper
- Decorative cord
- 2 eyelets
- 2 cord stoppers/toggles
- 4 buttons
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom edge of the garment and the upper edge of the pocket – 3 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details).
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Hood – 2 pieces
- Center hood piece – 1 piece
- Hood facing – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- Flap – 4 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Tab – 2 pieces
- Drawstring casing – 1 piece on fold
- From fusible interfacing:
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Flap – 2 pieces
- Hood facing – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Hood – 2 pieces
- Center hood piece – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Form and secure the inverted pleat on the pocket piece. Fold the upper pocket allowance to the wrong side by 1 cm, then by 2 cm, and topstitch. Press the side and bottom edges of the pocket to the wrong side. Place the pockets on the front according to the markings and topstitch. Fold the flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer contour. Clip the allowances at the curves, turn the flaps right side out, shape, and press. Topstitch along the flap 0.5 cm from the edge. Overlock the upper edge. Attach the flaps to the front (corner pointing towards the neckline), fold down, and topstitch.
- Stitch the shoulder seams, press allowances open.
- Attach the sleeves to the garment, press allowances towards the sleeve. Stitch the side seams, simultaneously with the sleeve seams, press allowances towards the back.
- Punch eyelets on the front according to the markings. Press the allowances of the drawstring casing around the perimeter to the wrong side. Place the drawstring casing wrong side up on the wrong side of the garment and topstitch.
- Attach the side hood pieces to the center hood piece, press allowances towards the center piece. Attach the facing to the hood, press allowances towards the facing.
- Set the hood into the neckline, press allowances open.
- Fold the left front placket lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch the short edges. Turn right side out, shape, and press. Place the left side of the zipper with the edge of the front and hood (teeth pointing away from the edge), place the left placket, and stitch. Place the right side of the zipper with the edge of the front and hood (teeth pointing away from the edge) and stitch.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and the back neckline facing, press allowances open. Stitch the hood pieces and center piece from the lining fabric, press allowances towards the center piece. Attach the facing to the hood lining, press allowances towards the facing. Set the hood into the neckline of the facings, press allowances open.
- Place the facings with the hood right sides together with the main garment and stitch the edge of the front and hood. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners. Turn the facings to the wrong side, shape, and press. Secure the hood insertion allowances together.
- Stitch the cuff into a loop, press allowances open. Fold the cuff lengthwise in half, right side out. Attach the cuff to the lower edge of the sleeve.
- Fold the tab right sides together and stitch the long side and corner. Trim allowances, turn the tab right side out, press, and topstitch 0.1 cm from the edge. Attach the tab to the inner of the cuff according to the markings.
- Stitch the lining pieces, leaving an opening in the left side seam. Attach the lining to the facings and front facings, to the bottom of the jacket. Turn the garment right side out through the technical opening. Attach the lining to the bottom of the sleeve through the technical opening, press allowances. Close the opening. Topstitch along the bottom edge of the garment 2 cm from the edge.
- Fold the right front placket lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch the corners. Turn right side out and press. Topstitch along the outer fold, and along the upper and lower edges. Overlock the inner edge. Place the placket on the front (edge pointing away from the front edge) and topstitch along the marked line. Fold back the placket, covering the zipper, and topstitch along the attachment seam.
- Make buttonholes on the right placket and tabs. Sew on buttons accordingly. Thread the cord through the drawstring casing, secure the cord stoppers.
