Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: soft coat fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. Also needed: fusible interlining; lining fabric; shoulder pads; sleeve heads; 7 buttons with a diameter of 2.5 – 3 cm.
CUTTER'S MUST
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment 3.5 cm, for the side edges of the welt, underlap, and pocket bags – 2 cm, hem allowance for the bottom of the lining 2 cm. ATTENTION! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part – 1 piece
- Lower back part – 1 piece on fold
- Center front part – 2 pieces
- Side front part – 2 pieces
- Lower front part — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Cuff — 2 pieces
- Belt – 1 piece
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Welt – 2 pieces
- Underlap – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Upper back part – 1 piece
- Lower back part – 1 piece on fold
- Center front part – 2 pieces
- Side front part – 2 pieces
- Lower front part — 2 pieces
- Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
- From fusible interlining:
- center front part
- upper collar
- front facing
- back neckline facing
- welt
- belt
- armhole areas and garment hem
ATTENTION: Lining pieces are cut with the front facing and neckline facing deducted.
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interlining to the designated pieces.
- Fold the welt in half lengthwise, right sides out, and press. Fuse interlining to the pocket placement area. Mark the finished width line on the welt. Stitch the small pocket bag to the wrong side of the welt. Place the welt right side down on the right side of the front piece, aligning with the marked line (closer to the center). Stitch the welt. Stitch the underlap to the large pocket bag, folding the long edge inwards. Stitch the large pocket bag to the other pocket marking line. Cut the pocket opening in the middle between the marking lines, making diagonal cuts towards the pocket marking corners. Turn the pocket pieces to the wrong side. Straighten and press the seam allowances. Stitch the pocket bag edges, securing the pocket corners.
- Stitch the darts on the upper back part. Press the darts towards the center back. On the lower back part, form and secure the inverted pleat according to the markings. Stitch the lower back part to the upper back part. Press the seam upwards.
- Stitch the princess seams of the front. Press the seam towards the center front. On the lower front part, form and stitch the pleat according to the markings. Spread the pleat depth to 2 sides, forming an inverted pleat. Stitch the lower front part to the upper front part. Press the seam upwards.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams. Press the allowances open. Overlock the side seams.
- Cut a bias strip for the loop 4 x 15 cm. Fold the strip in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch. Turn the strip right side out and press. Adjust the loop to the button size and stitch to the side of the collar.
- Place the collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer edge and side edges. Start and end the seam strictly at the marked collar attachment line. Turn the collar right side out and press.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing. Press the seams open.
- Overlock and press up the hem allowance. Place the front facing on the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge. Stitch upwards to the notch indicating the end of the collar attachment. Clip the allowance at the mark. Stitch the lower edge of the front facing to the front piece strictly along the marked hemline, stopping 1.5 cm before the inner edge of the front facing. Turn the front edges right side out, straighten the seams.
- Attach the upper collar to the neckline, and the under collar to the neckline edge of the back facing and front facing. Press the seams open. Secure the collar attachment allowances close to the seams.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch into a loop. Press the seam open. Turn the cuff right side out, fold in half, and press. Attach the cuff to the bottom of the sleeve. Set the sleeves into the armholes, easing the sleeve cap at the top and matching the notches. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- Stitch the lining pieces similarly to the main fabric pieces. Turn up the lower edge allowance of the lining twice by 1.5 cm and topstitch. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and the back neckline facing. Start and end the stitching at half the width of the main garment's hem allowance. Clip the allowance on the inner edge of the front facing at the start of the lining attachment. Fold the front facing allowance from the hemline to the clip inwards and hand stitch. Overlock the lining attachment seam and press towards the lining. Hand stitch the garment hem. Topstitch 1 cm from the edge of the front opening and collar.
- Attach the lining to the bottom of the sleeves. Turn the coat right side out. Topstitch 1 cm from the bottom of the cuff and from the cuff attachment seam.
- On the right front piece, make buttonholes; sew buttons on the left and right front pieces and on the collar.
- On the back, topstitch 1 cm from the fold along the outer and inner edges of the pleat, catching the hem allowance.
- Fold the belt piece in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along the contour, leaving an opening for turning. Turn the belt right side out, turn in the allowances of the unstitched section, and hand stitch. Topstitch 1 cm from the edge around the perimeter of the belt. Make buttonholes on the belt. Sew buttons on the back to match the buttonholes.
