DXF AAMA Pattern 6073 introduces a double-breasted, semi-fitted men’s jacket that combines classic tailored elements with a streamlined, sophisticated style. It features peaked lapels and a structured shape, enhanced by shoulder pads and a double-vent back for a polished look. The front panels extend to the side-back without side seams, creating a seamless silhouette. For a practical yet refined finish, the jacket includes a chest welt pocket and two flap pockets, while the two-piece sleeves have button vents for added mobility. A front welting detail and carefully placed lining complete the design.

To create this jacket, you will need main fabric, lining, and fusing. Main fabric pieces include two front, back, and side panels; two-part sleeves; collars; and pocket flaps. Lining elements closely match the outer structure, with slight adjustments in dimensions for a tailored inner fit. Fusing reinforces critical areas, including the front panels, collars, flaps, and welting, providing durability and a sharp appearance. Note: If using checked fabric, align patterns at the seams for a cohesive look.

KEY DESIGN FEATURES

Silhouette: Semi-fitted jacket.

Cut: Double-breasted, with a structured shoulder enhanced by shoulder pads. The front panels extend to the side-back, creating a sleek, seamless shape without side seams.

Length: Hip-length.

Sleeves: Two-piece sleeves with a button vent at the cuff.

Main Design Features: Peaked lapels, double-vent back, and front welt pocket with flap pockets.

Closure: Double-breasted front with button fastening.

SEAM ALLOWANCES

We recommend purchasing this pattern without seam allowances if you’re comfortable adding your own. This allows for more control over adjustments and alignment, which can be especially helpful when working with complex garments like a double-breasted jacket. This pattern requires intermediate to advanced sewing skills and is not recommended for beginners due to the structured construction, detailed lining, and precise fitting elements.

In case you buy this pattern WITH seam allowances, please note that if the pattern pieces that you receive have a single contour, this means they have no seam allowances. However, if you see a double contour, this means the seam allowances are included.

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS FOR DXF AAMA PATTERN 6073

For pattern 6073, we recommend medium to heavy-weight fabrics that hold structure well, such as wool blends, tweed, or cotton twill. These fabrics provide a structured drape suitable for maintaining the jacket’s shape, while lining fabrics like Bemberg or acetate offer a smooth interior finish.

CUTTER’S MUST FOR DXF AAMA PATTERN 6073

From the main fabric, cut:

Back part – 2 pieces
Front part – 2 pieces
Side part – 2 pieces
Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Outer collar – 1 piece
Flap – 2 pieces
Off-set welt – 1 piece
Stand-up collar – 2 pieces
Front band – 2 pieces
Small sacking – 1 piece
Pocket bag – 2 pieces
Facing – 4 pieces
Inner collar – 1 piece

From lining fabric, cut:
1. Back part (add 2 cm along center for pleat)
2. Front part (excluding front facing)
3. Both sleeve pieces (without slit facing)
4. Side part, flap, pocket bag of the main pockets, and small sacking for the chest welt pocket.

From fusible interfacing, cut:
Front parts, outer/inner collar, flap, facings, and off-set welt for reinforcement.

Note: This pattern requires intermediate to advanced sewing skills and is not recommended for beginners due to the structured construction, detailed lining, and precise fitting elements.

IMPORTANT INFORMATION

First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out according to the fabric width (the fabric width can range from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much fabric you will need (don’t forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

When joining the pieces, pay attention to the notches — they must align!

ADDITIONAL SUPPLIES

Fusible Interfacing: Medium weight for structured areas.

Lining: For a men’s tailored jacket, a good quality lining can enhance both the durability and comfort of the garment. Here are some options:

1. Silk Satin: Offers a luxurious feel and a smooth finish. It’s lightweight and breathable, making it ideal for warmer weather, but it can be more expensive.
2. Bemberg (Cupro): A popular choice for high-end jackets, Bemberg is a breathable, soft, and moisture-wicking fabric that feels like silk but is more affordable and durable. It also has a smooth finish and doesn’t cling to clothing underneath.
3. Acetate: A more affordable alternative to silk and Bemberg, acetate is smooth, breathable, and has a nice drape, though it may not be as durable over time.
4. Polyester: A durable, low-cost option that resists wrinkles and shrinkage. It’s not as breathable as natural fibers, but it’s still widely used for budget-friendly or practical jackets.
5. Wool: Some tailored jackets may also use lightweight wool linings, which provide a natural, breathable option and can work well for colder climates.

When choosing a lining, consider the weight and drape of the fabric, as well as the overall aesthetic and purpose of the jacket. Bemberg is often favored in professional tailoring due to its luxurious feel and durability.

Buttons: 4 buttons matching the double-breasted style.

DXF AAMA PATTERN 6073 FOR 3D DESIGNERS, CONTRACTORS, AND ADVANCED SEWISTS

• DXF AAMA for 3D Designers: The DXF AAMA format ensures compatibility with most 3D fashion design software, enabling easy previews of how the dress will look and move on a digital mannequin. Designers can make adjustments quickly and accurately.
• PLT Format for Contractors: Plotter-ready PLT format allows sewing contractors to create efficient layouts for accurate cutting and optimal material use, ideal for bulk production or custom orders.
• PDF Format for Advanced Sewists: The user-friendly PDF format allows advanced sewing enthusiasts to print and assemble pattern pieces at home.

CUSTOM FIT OPTIONS WITH INDIVIDUAL MEASUREMENTS OR ASTM SIZES

Pattern 6073 offers both custom sizing based on individual measurements and ASTM US standard sizing. The drafting software tailors the pattern precisely to the user’s dimensions, ensuring ideal wrap, shoulder fit, and sleeve length. Custom sizing is available from a bust of 35 cm to 170 cm and low hip of 35 cm to 190 cm, accommodating a wide range of body shapes and sizes, which minimizes alterations and enhances comfort.

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